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[title] => I službeno najbolje tripice u Dalmaciji pripremaju se na par koraka od Splita, za sve je bila ‘kriva‘ svekrva Zdenka, a nastavila nevjesta Ojdana: ‘Zbog najukusnijih janjećih dropčića skreće se i s autoceste!‘
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Fileki, tripe, škembići, dropci ili po naški tripice pučka je namirnica rasprostranjena diljem Mediterana koju se obožava ili jednostavno mrzi. Dok ih jedni na široko zaobilaze, drugi će za njih prevaliti kilometre.
Jednako kao i vaši reporteri u potrazi za najboljim tripicama u Dalmaciji. A oni su “Kod Brune”, staroj i provjerenoj gostionici na pola puta između Šestanovca i Ciste Provo, točnije na Prpuši, koja se već osam godina diči “Medpath” diplomom za najbolje janjeće tripice u regiji.
Bio je to dio gastronomskog užitka u sklopu europskog IPA projekta koji je 2014. godine u suradnji s talijanskim partnerima, Regionalnom razvojnom agencijom Splitsko-dalmatinske županije i jedinicama lokalne samouprave, održan u Trilju.
Za ocjenu njihove izvrsnosti bili su odabrani vrsni poznavatelji gastronomije Zlatko Gall i Stephan Macchi koji su na kraju pohvalili kuharicu Ojdanu Merčep za raskoš mediteranskog zaleđa na tanjuru i posebnost načina kuhanja i začinskog bilja koje tom jelu daju orginalnost i ukus kakav se nigdje drugdje ne može naći.
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– A o ukusima se ne raspravlja – tvrde “Kod Brune”. – Tripice su jelo koje ili volite ili ne volite. Riječ je o želucima, u našem slučaju janjećim koji idu u kompletu sa crijevima. Jelo koje neki možda ne bi prinijeli ustima i da im platiš, u našem objektu jednostavno ima svoje sljedbenike.
Dok neki barem jednom tjedno imaju tripice na meniju, kod nas je to svakodnevica. Svakog dana skuhamo od trideset do pedeset porcija, ovisno od dana. Najbolje je utorkom, kada se ljudi vraćaju sa zadvarskog pazara. Ljeti ili zimi, tripice su najtraženije jelo u našoj ponudi – veli dvadesetpetogodišnji Lovro Merčep, vlasnik i sljedbenik obiteljskog ugostiteljskog objekta čiji korijeni sežu od konca sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća kada su njegov djed Bruno i baka Zdenka udarili temelje ugostiteljske ponude na krševitoj zaravni, danas granici između šestanovačke i ciske općine.
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Lovro je do prije koju godinu bio vozač teških kamiona. Međutim, što po genima što iz ljubavi, vratio se za šank i u kuhinju. Trenutno je u fazi ishođenja potrebne papirologije da “Kod Brune” ne bude više gostionica već da tripice kušate u respektabilnom restoranu.
Tripice će uz gulaš i pečenu janjetinu i dalje ostati nezaobilazan dio ugostiteljske ponude. Ona je danas znatno bogatija, ali dalmatinskim škembićima možete dodati malo vode.
Koliko i je li uopće treba dodati vode, zna Lovrina majka Ojdana. Vrsna kuharica koja tripice “bari” više od trideset godina i danas joj nema premca.
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– Kada sam se udala o tripicama i njihovoj pripremi nisam imala pojma. Sve sam naučila od svekrve Zdenke i od tada ne ispuštam kutlaču iz ruke. Ona je bila vrhunska kuharica dok nije otišla u mirovinu. Malo ‘ko joj je moga parirat u pripremi hrane, posebno tripica. Zbog toga je naša gostiona bila na glasu kao tradicionalna kužina čiji su gosti bili ljubitelji dobre kašike.
Često me znaju pitati nekakvu tajnu u pripremi janjećih iznutrica. Nema tu ništa skriveno. Sve što nam je potrebno imamo u svom toru i dvoru. Iz vrta uzimamo povrće, mrkvu, papriku, kapulu, peršin, celer…, a iz tora janjce, pancetu, suho meso i kost od pršuta. Jedino u periodu kada nemamo dostatno janjećih stomačića uzimamo ih kod provjerenih mesara.
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Ne možete se pouzdati u one koji vam nude iznutrice koje danas valjaju, a kod iduće narudžbe, to nije to. Nama to ne igra. Ljudi su se naučili na ono najbolje. Stoga moramo držati do tradicije i nadasve kvalitete.
Da smo kojim slučajem “zabrazdili”, odavno bismo zatvorili vrata – objašnjava Ojdana Merčep smjernice u svom poslovanju.
Posao oko pripreme uopće nije lagan. Dropčiće treba očistiti, obariti i naposljetku narezati na tanke ploške i prema potrebi koristiti, slijed je kvalitetne pripreme. A ona je pola posla.
– Čujte, danas ljudi baš i ne pripremaju ovu vrstu hrane. Ili ako jesu, onda kupe već obarena i narezana crijeva u nekom trgovačkom centru, podebljana s nekakvom konzervom rajčice ili gotovih tripica i to konzumiraju. Ne govorim da je to loše, ljudi izbjegavaju onaj “prljavi” dio posla, odnosno čišćenje i kuhanje koje prate ti neugodni mirisi, koji neke moguće konzumente trajno odbijaju od pokušaja da probaju to jelo.
Međutim mi to sebi ne smijemo dozvoliti. Ono što diže kvalitetu našem jelu svakako je suho svinjsko meso. Jer di guda nije ugazila, slaba vam vajda. Stoga kada zažutimo kapulu na ulju u drugom loncu se kuha panceta, malo slanine i obvezno kost od pršuta. Kasnije se to pomiješa i sve zajedno se krčka u loncu.
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To daje onu potrebnu aromu, i još kada začinite paprikom i malo papra tu su gušti ciloga svita. Nikada moja svekrva nije stavljala Vegetu, nije je tada ni bilo pa je koristila sve iz svog vrta – preporuča Ojdana prirodne začine za dobar zalogaj.
Od te 1979. godine i ugostiteljskih početaka na Prpuši malo toga se promijenilo u objektu. Ostao je u onom starinskom štihu sve do prije koju godinu kada je Lovre počeo s postepenim renoviranjem.
Bilo je, kaže, i teških dana. Pogotovo te recesijske 2008. godine, pa i koju godinu kasnije. Posebno nakon izgradnje autoceste, što je znatno smanjilo promet na prometnici prema Imotskom i dalje prema Hercegovini, a samim time i u gostionici.
Ukinula se tada svakodnevna ponuda pečene janjetine, ali ne i tripica.
– Malo po malo ljudi su se počeli vraćati. Sada izlaze s autoputa u Šestanovcu samo da kušaju naše tripice. Danas naši gosti za dobrom kašikom dolaze iz Sinja, Splita, Trilja, Makarske i čak Vrgorca.
Neki dan Nizozemci, jučer Englezi. Kada pitaju za specijalitet kuće, ponudimo im tripice. Ne znaju oni što je to, pa im lipo natenane objasnimo na engleskom što grickaju njihovi zubići.
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Kasnije ih ne možeš odmaknuti od lonca. Čude se da se za pedeset kuna, koliko košta jedna porcija tripica, mogu najesti dvije osobe. Zbog cijene nam dolaze i naši ljudi iz Šestanovca, Ciste, Katuna i okolnih sela – optimistična je Ojdana Merčep, koja u kuhinji provede i po petnaest sati dnevno ne štedeći sebe ni obitelj, jer tradicija ne smije stagnirati, a ona je bez fileka osuđena na propast.
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Ojdana Mer\u010dep u obiteljskoj gostionici 'Kod Brune', u Katunima-Prpu\u0161i kod \u0160estanovca kuha najbolje janje\u0107e tripice<\/p>","
Ojdana Mer\u010dep u obiteljskoj gostionici 'Kod Brune', u Katunima Prpu\u0161i (op\u0107ina \u0160estanovac) kuhaju se najbolje janje\u0107e tripice<\/p>","
Sve \u0161to vam treba za vrhunske janje\u0107e tripice valja uzeti malo iz dvora, malo iz tora<\/p>","
Drop\u010di\u0107e treba o\u010distiti, obariti i naposljetku narezati na tanke plo\u0161ke<\/p>","","","
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Ljudi vole pojest \u2018dobru ka\u0161iku\u2019<\/p>","
Ojdana i Lovro Mer\u010dep<\/p>","","
Nema velike tajne u spremanju tripica, ka\u017ee kulinarska zvijezda sa Prpu\u0161e<\/p>","
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U gostionici Mer\u010depovih sve je doma\u0107e, iz vlastitog vrta<\/p>","
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Fileki, tripe, škembići, dropci ili po naški tripice pučka je namirnica rasprostranjena diljem Mediterana koju se obožava ili jednostavno mrzi. Dok ih jedni na široko zaobilaze, drugi će za njih prevaliti kilometre.
Jednako kao i vaši reporteri u potrazi za najboljim tripicama u Dalmaciji. A oni su “Kod Brune”, staroj i provjerenoj gostionici na pola puta između Šestanovca i Ciste Provo, točnije na Prpuši, koja se već osam godina diči “Medpath” diplomom za najbolje janjeće tripice u regiji.
Bio je to dio gastronomskog užitka u sklopu europskog IPA projekta koji je 2014. godine u suradnji s talijanskim partnerima, Regionalnom razvojnom agencijom Splitsko-dalmatinske županije i jedinicama lokalne samouprave, održan u Trilju.
Za ocjenu njihove izvrsnosti bili su odabrani vrsni poznavatelji gastronomije Zlatko Gall i Stephan Macchi koji su na kraju pohvalili kuharicu Ojdanu Merčep za raskoš mediteranskog zaleđa na tanjuru i posebnost načina kuhanja i začinskog bilja koje tom jelu daju orginalnost i ukus kakav se nigdje drugdje ne može naći.
---
---
– A o ukusima se ne raspravlja – tvrde “Kod Brune”. – Tripice su jelo koje ili volite ili ne volite. Riječ je o želucima, u našem slučaju janjećim koji idu u kompletu sa crijevima. Jelo koje neki možda ne bi prinijeli ustima i da im platiš, u našem objektu jednostavno ima svoje sljedbenike.
Dok neki barem jednom tjedno imaju tripice na meniju, kod nas je to svakodnevica. Svakog dana skuhamo od trideset do pedeset porcija, ovisno od dana. Najbolje je utorkom, kada se ljudi vraćaju sa zadvarskog pazara. Ljeti ili zimi, tripice su najtraženije jelo u našoj ponudi – veli dvadesetpetogodišnji Lovro Merčep, vlasnik i sljedbenik obiteljskog ugostiteljskog objekta čiji korijeni sežu od konca sedamdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća kada su njegov djed Bruno i baka Zdenka udarili temelje ugostiteljske ponude na krševitoj zaravni, danas granici između šestanovačke i ciske općine.
---
---
Lovro je do prije koju godinu bio vozač teških kamiona. Međutim, što po genima što iz ljubavi, vratio se za šank i u kuhinju. Trenutno je u fazi ishođenja potrebne papirologije da “Kod Brune” ne bude više gostionica već da tripice kušate u respektabilnom restoranu.
Tripice će uz gulaš i pečenu janjetinu i dalje ostati nezaobilazan dio ugostiteljske ponude. Ona je danas znatno bogatija, ali dalmatinskim škembićima možete dodati malo vode.
Koliko i je li uopće treba dodati vode, zna Lovrina majka Ojdana. Vrsna kuharica koja tripice “bari” više od trideset godina i danas joj nema premca.
---
---
– Kada sam se udala o tripicama i njihovoj pripremi nisam imala pojma. Sve sam naučila od svekrve Zdenke i od tada ne ispuštam kutlaču iz ruke. Ona je bila vrhunska kuharica dok nije otišla u mirovinu. Malo ‘ko joj je moga parirat u pripremi hrane, posebno tripica. Zbog toga je naša gostiona bila na glasu kao tradicionalna kužina čiji su gosti bili ljubitelji dobre kašike.
Često me znaju pitati nekakvu tajnu u pripremi janjećih iznutrica. Nema tu ništa skriveno. Sve što nam je potrebno imamo u svom toru i dvoru. Iz vrta uzimamo povrće, mrkvu, papriku, kapulu, peršin, celer…, a iz tora janjce, pancetu, suho meso i kost od pršuta. Jedino u periodu kada nemamo dostatno janjećih stomačića uzimamo ih kod provjerenih mesara.
---
---
Ne možete se pouzdati u one koji vam nude iznutrice koje danas valjaju, a kod iduće narudžbe, to nije to. Nama to ne igra. Ljudi su se naučili na ono najbolje. Stoga moramo držati do tradicije i nadasve kvalitete.
Da smo kojim slučajem “zabrazdili”, odavno bismo zatvorili vrata – objašnjava Ojdana Merčep smjernice u svom poslovanju.
Posao oko pripreme uopće nije lagan. Dropčiće treba očistiti, obariti i naposljetku narezati na tanke ploške i prema potrebi koristiti, slijed je kvalitetne pripreme. A ona je pola posla.
– Čujte, danas ljudi baš i ne pripremaju ovu vrstu hrane. Ili ako jesu, onda kupe već obarena i narezana crijeva u nekom trgovačkom centru, podebljana s nekakvom konzervom rajčice ili gotovih tripica i to konzumiraju. Ne govorim da je to loše, ljudi izbjegavaju onaj “prljavi” dio posla, odnosno čišćenje i kuhanje koje prate ti neugodni mirisi, koji neke moguće konzumente trajno odbijaju od pokušaja da probaju to jelo.
Međutim mi to sebi ne smijemo dozvoliti. Ono što diže kvalitetu našem jelu svakako je suho svinjsko meso. Jer di guda nije ugazila, slaba vam vajda. Stoga kada zažutimo kapulu na ulju u drugom loncu se kuha panceta, malo slanine i obvezno kost od pršuta. Kasnije se to pomiješa i sve zajedno se krčka u loncu.
---
---
To daje onu potrebnu aromu, i još kada začinite paprikom i malo papra tu su gušti ciloga svita. Nikada moja svekrva nije stavljala Vegetu, nije je tada ni bilo pa je koristila sve iz svog vrta – preporuča Ojdana prirodne začine za dobar zalogaj.
Od te 1979. godine i ugostiteljskih početaka na Prpuši malo toga se promijenilo u objektu. Ostao je u onom starinskom štihu sve do prije koju godinu kada je Lovre počeo s postepenim renoviranjem.
Bilo je, kaže, i teških dana. Pogotovo te recesijske 2008. godine, pa i koju godinu kasnije. Posebno nakon izgradnje autoceste, što je znatno smanjilo promet na prometnici prema Imotskom i dalje prema Hercegovini, a samim time i u gostionici.
Ukinula se tada svakodnevna ponuda pečene janjetine, ali ne i tripica.
– Malo po malo ljudi su se počeli vraćati. Sada izlaze s autoputa u Šestanovcu samo da kušaju naše tripice. Danas naši gosti za dobrom kašikom dolaze iz Sinja, Splita, Trilja, Makarske i čak Vrgorca.
Neki dan Nizozemci, jučer Englezi. Kada pitaju za specijalitet kuće, ponudimo im tripice. Ne znaju oni što je to, pa im lipo natenane objasnimo na engleskom što grickaju njihovi zubići.
---
---
Kasnije ih ne možeš odmaknuti od lonca. Čude se da se za pedeset kuna, koliko košta jedna porcija tripica, mogu najesti dvije osobe. Zbog cijene nam dolaze i naši ljudi iz Šestanovca, Ciste, Katuna i okolnih sela – optimistična je Ojdana Merčep, koja u kuhinji provede i po petnaest sati dnevno ne štedeći sebe ni obitelj, jer tradicija ne smije stagnirati, a ona je bez fileka osuđena na propast.
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Joško Šupić/Cropix
Ojdana Merčep u obiteljskoj gostionici 'Kod Brune', u Katunima-Prpuši kod Šestanovca kuha najbolje janjeće tripice
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Ojdana Merčep u obiteljskoj gostionici 'Kod Brune', u Katunima Prpuši (općina Šestanovac) kuhaju se najbolje janjeće tripice
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Sve što vam treba za vrhunske janjeće tripice valja uzeti malo iz dvora, malo iz tora
Joško Šupić/Cropix
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Joško Šupić/Cropix
Nema velike tajne u spremanju tripica, kaže kulinarska zvijezda sa Prpuše
Joško Šupić/Cropix
Ojdana se već osam godina diči ‘Medpath’ diplomom za najbolje janjeće tripice u regiji
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[twitterURL] => http://twitter.com/intent/tweet?text=I+slu%C5%BEbeno+najbolje+tripice+u+Dalmaciji+pripremaju+se+na+par+koraka+od+Splita%2C+za+sve+je+bila+%E2%80%98kriva%E2%80%98+svekrva+Zdenka%2C+a+nastavila+nevjesta+Ojdana%3A+%E2%80%98Zbog+najukusnijih+janje%C4%87ih+drop%C4%8Di%C4%87a+skre%C4%87e+se+i+s+autoceste%21%E2%80%98&url=https%3A%2F%2Fslobodnadalmacija.hr%2Fdalmacija%2Fzagora%2Fi-sluzbeno-najbolje-tripice-u-dalmaciji-pripremaju-se-na-par-koraka-od-splita-za-sve-je-bila-kriva-svekrva-zdenka-a-nastavila-nevjesta-ojdana-zbog-najukusnijih-janjecih-dropcica-skrece-se-i-s-autoceste-1214326
[socialLink] => https%3A%2F%2Fslobodnadalmacija.hr%2Fdalmacija%2Fzagora%2Fi-sluzbeno-najbolje-tripice-u-dalmaciji-pripremaju-se-na-par-koraka-od-splita-za-sve-je-bila-kriva-svekrva-zdenka-a-nastavila-nevjesta-ojdana-zbog-najukusnijih-janjecih-dropcica-skrece-se-i-s-autoceste-1214326
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)
14. svibanj 2024 15:41
