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[title] => U konobi tenora klape Ošjak guštali smo u starinskim jelima i jedinstvenom ambijentu: ‘Ovo vam je ključ uspjeha...‘
[alias] => u-konobi-tenora-klape-osjak-gustali-smo-u-starinskim-jelima-i-jedinstvenom-ambijentu-ovo-vam-je-kljuc-uspjeha
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U mjestu Stani, desetak minuta od Vele Luke na otoku Korčuli, nalazi se predivna obiteljska konoba "Gulin" koju je neizostavno posjetiti ako vas put nanese tamo. Tradicionalne kamene pojate u starom obiteljskom masliniku, domaća hrana i uživanje u trima stvarima koje je zaštitio UNESCO - suhozidnim terasama, stoljetnim maslinicima te u izvornoj klapskoj pjesmi - razlog su zašto biste trebali posjetiti Guline.
Tonći Miletić vlasnik je konobe, inače prvi tenor klape "Ošjak", a osim njega u konobi rade i njegov sin Marin, kći Karmen, sestra Marija Šeparović i njezina unuka Katarina Žuvela. Tonćijeva supruga uleti po potrebi.
Marin nam kaže kako je konoba počela s radom 2007. godine, a do toga možda ne bi ni došlo da se u Veloj Luci nije zatvorilo gradilište, zbog čega je otac Tonći ostao bez posla. I sam je uskoro napustio dotadašnji posao, kako bi se posvetio konobi, koja je danas vrlo popularna i gosti joj se rado vraćaju, baš kao i mi. Po tko zna koji put s guštom smo navratili, najeli se vrhunske spize, uživali u pjevanju klape "Ošjak" i popričali s Marinom.
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– Kad smo krenuli nismo znali kako će biti, vidjeli smo da ljudi vole doći i da im se sviđa i tako je sve krenulo. Mi nemamo podjelu zadataka, nego gdje se nađeš u trenutku – to radiš. Radimo od 1. svibnja pa do maslina. Odnosno ma negdje do prve polovice rujna – govori nam Marin dok šetamo među starim kamenim kućicama pa priča skreće na njihovo preuređenje...
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– Ovdje su prije bile kamene pojate, bile su i kuće i štale. Navodno su Miletići s Hvara došli najprije na ovo mjesto jer je tu jedan mindel, koji je stariji od Vele Luke. Netko ga je morao posaditi, što znači da su oni s Hvara došli tu dok Vela Luka još nije ni postojala. Tu je bilo par starih ruševnih kućica koje smo mi uredili malo po malo i evo ovo je sada konačni rezultat – veli nam Marin, koji osim što sprema hranu, konobari, voli i zapjevat gostima s ocem i klapom "Ošjak".
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– To uvijek bude spontano. Kad smo ovdje otac i ja te dođu još dvojica, već imaš klapu, nije nam teško. Nesvakidašnje je to u konobi i drago mi je da je tako. Gostima se sviđa čuti izvornu klapsku pjesmu. Vole ovdje ljudi doć i radi ambijenta jer nije u gradu, već u masliniku. Uvik je freške arije bez dima od auti, lipi pogled, freška spiza, domaće namirnice i mislin da je to ključ uspjeha – pojašnjava nam Marin.
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Dobra morska spiza neizostavan je sastojak ovog ugođaja. Posebnost konobe je i da nemaju meni. Što taj dan ima, to se jede.
– Nastojimo da nam sve namirnice budu freške, ili su naše ili kupimo od prijatelja koji se bave poljoprivredom. Nekad nešto moramo kupiti u butigu. Mi smo registrirani kao OPG radi ulja. Najviše se bavimo maslinarstvom. Od ostalog imamo verduru – krumpiri, tikvice, paprike, fažoleti, pomidore, kukumare... Što koristimo doma to koristimo i u konobi, tako da ljudi jedu što i mi. Ribu ulovimo sami ili uzmemo od prijatelja koji se bave time.
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Nekad i u Luci ujutro na peškariji kupimo, tamo je isto freška riba. Malo mesa koristimo, i to od lokalnih mesara, ali meso nam je gotovo zanemarivo. Uglavnom je riblji meni. Da, mi nemamo meni. Nego šta bude taj dan, to je na meniju, hoćeš-nećeš. Kad netko dođe mi kažemo što imamo, pa ako im paše ostanu – kaže nam Marin i ističe kako nastoje da su to jela iz korčulanske tradicije.
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– Dosta ovisi o tom koje je doba godine. Početkom lipnja budu crneji, svima se to sviđa, ali ne može gost crneje večerat, hahaha. Jela koja su karakteristična za ovo misto, koja san uči od babe i dide skuhat i koja pripremamo su pečeni crneji, suha riba tipa ugor i tabinja, sočivo (varivo od devet žitarica), istaknu bi mišancu, to je više jesensko ili zimsko jelo od divljih trava: kostrič, slaška, gnjaška, korenjaška, kozja brada, morač, ima ih..., onda još slani črnci, dida je plea vrše od jurovike pa bi se to u proljeće bacalo i lovili črnci, onda pićičok, tu je tikva glavni glumac u tom jelu, recimo to je džuvedž ili ratatul ili neki gulaš od tikve. Kuha se s još drugim povrćem. Onda brudeti, popare, lešade, roštilj.
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Meni osobno je najdraže jelo lešo kanjac i pirka freška. Ponosni smo na popare i brudete. U nas je brudet s kvasinom i prošekom i stavlja se na hladno, a popara je bez tog. To i gosti najviše vole. Budu i oni skeptični s ovim nazivima, teško im je objasnit šta je to uopće. Ali onda budu zadovoljni. Strancima ne možemo prevest ovo ništa, iako se trudimo. Kažemo im da je domaće i tradicionalno, daju ti se u ruke i puste te da radiš s njima šta oćeš – objašnjava nam Marin kako to funkcionira. Neke nazive i kombinacije koje nude nikad nismo čuli, no svakako ih se isplati probati.
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– Kombinacije koje mi radimo – nije to ništa neobično, sve smo mi to preuzeli od nekog prije i naslijedili recepte od nekog prije. Sve su to težačka jela koja su nastala od nevolje jer nije bilo što ist. Ljudi su se snalazili i izmišljali. I to su danas specijaliteti. Često imamo hobotnicu na salatu, inćune na brudet s palentom, savur, to se najviše radi od sardela.
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To su frigane sardele u toću od kapule, luka, petrusimula, ružmarina, kvasine, cukra, soli i ulja. To se stavi u teću, i to tako može stat po 4-5 dana. Na taj način se spremalo to jelo jer nije bilo potriba da stoji u frižideru – priznaje nam Marin i govori da je otegotna okolnost što u konobi sve do prošle godine nisu imali ni struje ni vode pa je i meni bio prilagođen takvim okolnostima.
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Priznaje nam i da mu je s familijom zanimljivo radit...
– Normalno da se posvađamo, to je glavni sastojak jela, radi toga su, ja mislin, i dobra, hahaha. Svađa je isključivo radi težnje ka savršenstvu. Ovi bi ovako, ovi bi onako, i zakačiš se u sekundi, a sve radi višega cilja i boljeg jela. Nema ovde šefa. Svak sve radi. Familija je, nema šefovanja – veli nam Marin.
Ponosan je i na to što je konobu "Gulin" prepoznalo i Ministarstvo turizma.
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– Prije dvije godine smo dobili "Zlatni suncokret", a od Županije smo dobili i "Zlatnu naranču" – govori Marin te za kraj poručuje: "Gostima želimo da nas se sjete, a za suvenir im ostavimo okus na nepcu", dok mi samo možemo dodati da okus na nepcu nećete još dugo zaboraviti nakon što odete iz konobe "Gulin".
---
---
Naravno, iz konobe nismo otišli prije nego smo dobili recepte...
Brudet od inćuna
Sastojci:
inćuni
kapula
luk
petrusimul
maslinovo ulje
crvena mljevena paprika
pomidore
konšerva
papar
sol
kvasina
prošek ili cukar
Priprema:
U široku teću ulijemo ulje te posložimo na ploške narezanu kapulu. Kapule minimalno da pokrije dno teće, a može i više. Zatim dodamo nasjeckani luk, petrusimul, pome i konšervu. Na to se složi riba, najbolje u jednom redu. Posolimo, popaprimo, stavimo malo crvene paprike, prelijemo vodom, kvasinom i prošekom tek toliko da se prekrije riba.
Sve na hladno staviti na vatru te kad provrije smanjiti vatru i kuhati minimalno dok se meso ribe ne počne odvajati od kosti, a preporuča se i dulje. Riba se neće raspasti zbog kvasine. Pred kraj popapriti.
Sve količine su odokativne, u konačnici je potrebno dobiti slatko-kiseli okus. Kao prilog preporuča se palenta.
Suhi ugor
Sastojci:
suhi ugor
maslinovo ulje
luk
petrusimul
papar
Priprema:
Suhog ugora narežemo na komade od zalogaja-dva, te ga potoćamo u vodi na par sati.
U teću da prekrije dno složimo krumpir narezan na fete debljine oko 0,5 cm. Na krumpir posložimo ugora te prelijemo vodom da pokrije ribu (može i mrvicu više).
Kuhati dok krumpir ne omekša. Ugasiti vatru, te dodati nasjeckani luk, petrusimul, papar, ulje i sol po potrebi. Prije konzumacije pustiti da odstoji par minuta.
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title=U konobi tenora klape Ošjak guštali smo u starinskim jelima i jedinstvenom ambijentu: 'Ovo vam je ključ uspjeha...'
[metakey] => konoba gulin, Vela Luka, tonći miletić, klapa Ošjak
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U mjestu Stani, desetak minuta od Vele Luke na otoku Korčuli, nalazi se predivna obiteljska konoba "Gulin" koju je neizostavno posjetiti ako vas put nanese tamo. Tradicionalne kamene pojate u starom obiteljskom masliniku, domaća hrana i uživanje u trima stvarima koje je zaštitio UNESCO - suhozidnim terasama, stoljetnim maslinicima te u izvornoj klapskoj pjesmi - razlog su zašto biste trebali posjetiti Guline.
Tonći Miletić vlasnik je konobe, inače prvi tenor klape "Ošjak", a osim njega u konobi rade i njegov sin Marin, kći Karmen, sestra Marija Šeparović i njezina unuka Katarina Žuvela. Tonćijeva supruga uleti po potrebi.
Marin nam kaže kako je konoba počela s radom 2007. godine, a do toga možda ne bi ni došlo da se u Veloj Luci nije zatvorilo gradilište, zbog čega je otac Tonći ostao bez posla. I sam je uskoro napustio dotadašnji posao, kako bi se posvetio konobi, koja je danas vrlo popularna i gosti joj se rado vraćaju, baš kao i mi. Po tko zna koji put s guštom smo navratili, najeli se vrhunske spize, uživali u pjevanju klape "Ošjak" i popričali s Marinom.
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– Kad smo krenuli nismo znali kako će biti, vidjeli smo da ljudi vole doći i da im se sviđa i tako je sve krenulo. Mi nemamo podjelu zadataka, nego gdje se nađeš u trenutku – to radiš. Radimo od 1. svibnja pa do maslina. Odnosno ma negdje do prve polovice rujna – govori nam Marin dok šetamo među starim kamenim kućicama pa priča skreće na njihovo preuređenje...
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– Ovdje su prije bile kamene pojate, bile su i kuće i štale. Navodno su Miletići s Hvara došli najprije na ovo mjesto jer je tu jedan mindel, koji je stariji od Vele Luke. Netko ga je morao posaditi, što znači da su oni s Hvara došli tu dok Vela Luka još nije ni postojala. Tu je bilo par starih ruševnih kućica koje smo mi uredili malo po malo i evo ovo je sada konačni rezultat – veli nam Marin, koji osim što sprema hranu, konobari, voli i zapjevat gostima s ocem i klapom "Ošjak".
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– To uvijek bude spontano. Kad smo ovdje otac i ja te dođu još dvojica, već imaš klapu, nije nam teško. Nesvakidašnje je to u konobi i drago mi je da je tako. Gostima se sviđa čuti izvornu klapsku pjesmu. Vole ovdje ljudi doć i radi ambijenta jer nije u gradu, već u masliniku. Uvik je freške arije bez dima od auti, lipi pogled, freška spiza, domaće namirnice i mislin da je to ključ uspjeha – pojašnjava nam Marin.
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Dobra morska spiza neizostavan je sastojak ovog ugođaja. Posebnost konobe je i da nemaju meni. Što taj dan ima, to se jede.
– Nastojimo da nam sve namirnice budu freške, ili su naše ili kupimo od prijatelja koji se bave poljoprivredom. Nekad nešto moramo kupiti u butigu. Mi smo registrirani kao OPG radi ulja. Najviše se bavimo maslinarstvom. Od ostalog imamo verduru – krumpiri, tikvice, paprike, fažoleti, pomidore, kukumare... Što koristimo doma to koristimo i u konobi, tako da ljudi jedu što i mi. Ribu ulovimo sami ili uzmemo od prijatelja koji se bave time.
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Nekad i u Luci ujutro na peškariji kupimo, tamo je isto freška riba. Malo mesa koristimo, i to od lokalnih mesara, ali meso nam je gotovo zanemarivo. Uglavnom je riblji meni. Da, mi nemamo meni. Nego šta bude taj dan, to je na meniju, hoćeš-nećeš. Kad netko dođe mi kažemo što imamo, pa ako im paše ostanu – kaže nam Marin i ističe kako nastoje da su to jela iz korčulanske tradicije.
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– Dosta ovisi o tom koje je doba godine. Početkom lipnja budu crneji, svima se to sviđa, ali ne može gost crneje večerat, hahaha. Jela koja su karakteristična za ovo misto, koja san uči od babe i dide skuhat i koja pripremamo su pečeni crneji, suha riba tipa ugor i tabinja, sočivo (varivo od devet žitarica), istaknu bi mišancu, to je više jesensko ili zimsko jelo od divljih trava: kostrič, slaška, gnjaška, korenjaška, kozja brada, morač, ima ih..., onda još slani črnci, dida je plea vrše od jurovike pa bi se to u proljeće bacalo i lovili črnci, onda pićičok, tu je tikva glavni glumac u tom jelu, recimo to je džuvedž ili ratatul ili neki gulaš od tikve. Kuha se s još drugim povrćem. Onda brudeti, popare, lešade, roštilj.
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Meni osobno je najdraže jelo lešo kanjac i pirka freška. Ponosni smo na popare i brudete. U nas je brudet s kvasinom i prošekom i stavlja se na hladno, a popara je bez tog. To i gosti najviše vole. Budu i oni skeptični s ovim nazivima, teško im je objasnit šta je to uopće. Ali onda budu zadovoljni. Strancima ne možemo prevest ovo ništa, iako se trudimo. Kažemo im da je domaće i tradicionalno, daju ti se u ruke i puste te da radiš s njima šta oćeš – objašnjava nam Marin kako to funkcionira. Neke nazive i kombinacije koje nude nikad nismo čuli, no svakako ih se isplati probati.
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– Kombinacije koje mi radimo – nije to ništa neobično, sve smo mi to preuzeli od nekog prije i naslijedili recepte od nekog prije. Sve su to težačka jela koja su nastala od nevolje jer nije bilo što ist. Ljudi su se snalazili i izmišljali. I to su danas specijaliteti. Često imamo hobotnicu na salatu, inćune na brudet s palentom, savur, to se najviše radi od sardela.
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To su frigane sardele u toću od kapule, luka, petrusimula, ružmarina, kvasine, cukra, soli i ulja. To se stavi u teću, i to tako može stat po 4-5 dana. Na taj način se spremalo to jelo jer nije bilo potriba da stoji u frižideru – priznaje nam Marin i govori da je otegotna okolnost što u konobi sve do prošle godine nisu imali ni struje ni vode pa je i meni bio prilagođen takvim okolnostima.
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Priznaje nam i da mu je s familijom zanimljivo radit...
– Normalno da se posvađamo, to je glavni sastojak jela, radi toga su, ja mislin, i dobra, hahaha. Svađa je isključivo radi težnje ka savršenstvu. Ovi bi ovako, ovi bi onako, i zakačiš se u sekundi, a sve radi višega cilja i boljeg jela. Nema ovde šefa. Svak sve radi. Familija je, nema šefovanja – veli nam Marin.
Ponosan je i na to što je konobu "Gulin" prepoznalo i Ministarstvo turizma.
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– Prije dvije godine smo dobili "Zlatni suncokret", a od Županije smo dobili i "Zlatnu naranču" – govori Marin te za kraj poručuje: "Gostima želimo da nas se sjete, a za suvenir im ostavimo okus na nepcu", dok mi samo možemo dodati da okus na nepcu nećete još dugo zaboraviti nakon što odete iz konobe "Gulin".
---
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Naravno, iz konobe nismo otišli prije nego smo dobili recepte...
Brudet od inćuna
Sastojci:
inćuni
kapula
luk
petrusimul
maslinovo ulje
crvena mljevena paprika
pomidore
konšerva
papar
sol
kvasina
prošek ili cukar
Priprema:
U široku teću ulijemo ulje te posložimo na ploške narezanu kapulu. Kapule minimalno da pokrije dno teće, a može i više. Zatim dodamo nasjeckani luk, petrusimul, pome i konšervu. Na to se složi riba, najbolje u jednom redu. Posolimo, popaprimo, stavimo malo crvene paprike, prelijemo vodom, kvasinom i prošekom tek toliko da se prekrije riba.
Sve na hladno staviti na vatru te kad provrije smanjiti vatru i kuhati minimalno dok se meso ribe ne počne odvajati od kosti, a preporuča se i dulje. Riba se neće raspasti zbog kvasine. Pred kraj popapriti.
Sve količine su odokativne, u konačnici je potrebno dobiti slatko-kiseli okus. Kao prilog preporuča se palenta.
Suhi ugor
Sastojci:
suhi ugor
maslinovo ulje
luk
petrusimul
papar
Priprema:
Suhog ugora narežemo na komade od zalogaja-dva, te ga potoćamo u vodi na par sati.
U teću da prekrije dno složimo krumpir narezan na fete debljine oko 0,5 cm. Na krumpir posložimo ugora te prelijemo vodom da pokrije ribu (može i mrvicu više).
Kuhati dok krumpir ne omekša. Ugasiti vatru, te dodati nasjeckani luk, petrusimul, papar, ulje i sol po potrebi. Prije konzumacije pustiti da odstoji par minuta.
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15. svibanj 2024 07:13
