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[title] => Kako su zadarski kuhari pomeli konkurenciju s Michelinovim zvjezdicama i plasirali se na prestižno prvenstvo za koje europske zemlje troše milijune eura
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Svjetsko, a naše – bio ti to najkraći opis uspjeha koji su postigli poznati zadarski kuhari Josip Vrsaljko i Tomislav Karamarko plasiravši se na prestižno europsko kulinarsko natjecanje Bocuse d'Or Europe koje će se za dvije godine održati u Norveškoj.
Tijesna se borba vodila između dvije vrhunske ekipe: zadarske snage činili su Karamarko, renomirani chef i savjetnik iz firme Marikomerc, njegov pomoćnik, 21-godišnji Gabriel Benić iz restorana Bruschetta te njihov mentor, poznati chef Vrsaljko, redovni profesor u Hotelijersko turističkoj i ugostiteljskoj školi Zadar te glavni chef restorana Corte na Poluotoku.
Na čelu druge ekipe je vrhunski chef Bruno Vokal iz restorana Noel, prvog i jedinog zagrebačkog restorana s Michelinovom zvjezdicom, a asistirao mu je njegov kolega, Valbon Ajruli. Dio ove ekipe je i dobitnik Michelinove zvjezdice te head chef i vlasnik šibenske konobe Pelegrini, Rudolf Štefan. Njihove radove su, uz članove sekcije kulinarskih suca HKS-a, vrednovali i mentori oba tima, Vrsaljko i Štefan, uz međunarodna pojačanja Almu Rekič, Ljubicu Komlenić i Gianlucu Tomasia.
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Nijanse su odlučivale o pobjedniku, no Karamarkovo dugogodišnje iskustvo u natjecanjima bilo je presudno da i ovog puta odnese pobjedu. Naime, on se već jednom plasirao na Bocuse d'Or Europe, i to 2016. godine kad se ono održavalo u Mađarskoj. Itekako dobro zna što znači biti dio kuharske elite.
- Treba naglasiti kako je zapravo najmanja stavka na ovakvim natjecanju kuhanje. Naravno da je i ono bitno, kao i okusi i prezentacija jela, ali u tih šest sati, koliko traje natjecanje, gleda se apsolutno sve: od tvog ulaska u kuhinju, stila kako radiš, kako barataš higijenom na radnom pultu, do stvari poput gori li ti plin bez tave i koliko dugo, koliko otpadaka ili višaka imaš i na koji ih tretiraš, hoćeš li ih baciti, vakuumirati, odvojiti, spremiti i gdje, brišeš li pribor s krpom ili s papirnatim ubrusima... Uh, toliko toga ima da rad u restoranskoj kuhinji usred sezone izgleda kao dječja igra – smije se Karamarko koji je za svog pomoćnika (koji po pravilima natjecanja mora imati do 21 godine) dobio bivšeg učenika svog kolege Vrsaljka.
Mladi je Benić bio bačen u vatru: prvo natjecanje pa odmah ono najvažnije.
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- Imao sam dosta pomiješanih emocija. Bilo je tu i stresa i uzbuđenja, treme... Nije vam baš svejedno kad toliki broj vrhunskih sudaca prate svaki vaš korak, gledaju svaku sitnicu koju radite i stalno vam se vrte oko pulta promatrajući hoćete li napraviti grešku... U svakom slučaju, bilo je ovo iskustvo koje ću pamtiti cijeli život – kratko je komentirao mladi i uspješni Benić.
Iako razdoblje od dvije godine zvuči kao dugo vrijeme za jedne pripreme, u razgovoru s ovim talentiranim kuharima shvatili smo da je čak i to - vrlo gusto. Osobito ako nemate podršku sponzora, grada, vlade...
Naime, zemlje poput Norveške i Švedske ulažu znatna sredstva u svoje kuhare koji odlaze na to natjecanje, čak nekoliko milijuna eura godišnje, kako bi ih kvalitetno pripremili.
- Švedski tim za trening kuha kraljevskoj obitelji, a uz to tijekom godine odlaze na razna natjecanja, poput kuharske olimpijade i Svjetskog kuharskog kupa. Norvežani pak imaju tri šlepera vrhunske opreme i kuhinju koja vrijedi sigurno preko 10 milijuna eura. Vjerujte mi, veliki se novci vrte uz ovo natjecanje jer kad se plasiraš na svjetsko, koje se svaki put održava u Lyonu, nema ti kraja – pojašnjava nam Vrsaljko, koji je na državnom natjecanju bio mentor svom dugogodišnjem prijatelju i kolegi Kramarku.
Zanimljivo je, a vjerojatno i vrlo rijetko, kako su ova dva talentirana kuhara nekad dijelila školsku klupu, danas i kuhinju u restoranu Corte, a "sutra" će se boriti s najboljim europskim kuharima. Kako kaže Vrsaljko kroz smijeh, 'kao siromasi i farabuti', kakvi su bili i u mladosti.
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- Mi dolazimo s našim posuđem, u kašetama i kutijama, ha-ha! Valjda je to ona naša klasična hrvatska priča: što manje imamo, više se borimo. U nama proradi neki dišpet i uspijemo uz minimalna sredstva, tek nekoliko dana priprema i gotovo nikakvu opremu napraviti ono o čemu mnoge zemlje, koje odvajaju velike novce, sanjaju. Također, vješti smo improvizatori u trenucima kad se recimo plan izjalovi. Volio bi ljudima približiti važnost ovog natjecanja, da shvate koliko bi samo plasiranje na svjetsko u Lyonu, bilo važno za naš grad, ali i cijelu zemlju. Bili bismo prvi iz Hrvatske, a to bi nas zasigurno stavilo na svjetsku gastronomsku kartu – ističe Vrsaljko dodajući kako bi to za zadarski turizam bila jedna velika odskočna daska.
Priliku u tome vidi i direktor TZ-a Mario Paleka koji im je obećao biti vjetar u leđa.
- S ovim je počela naša nova gastronomska utakmica i jedinstvena prilika da ste konačno etabliramo na kulinarsku scenu Mediterana, ali i šire. TZ Grada Zadra je i prije bila svjesna koliko gastronomija znači za turizam, zato se već nekoliko godina bavimo time: otišli smo našu kuhinju promovirati u New York, u jedan od najpopularnijih restorana Manhattana, "Felidia", gdje nam je gost bila i poznata Lidia Bastianich. Prošle smo godine uveli i posebnu rubriku na našim online izdanjima koja se bavi isključivo tradicionalnom zadarskom spizom i receptima koje smo sačuvali od zaborava. Sada se veselimo s Karamarkom i Vrsaljkom napisati nove stranice zadarske gastronomske priče – istaknuo je direktor Paleka.
A vjerujemo kako ova jedinstvena priča dvojice prijatelja, vrhunskih profesionalaca, čiji se odnos temelji ponajviše na simpatičnom podbadanju i dobroj šali, neće stati nakon tog europskog natjecanja, već će se nastaviti još dugi niz godina, sve dok se o njima ne budu pisale priče za nove generacije kuhara.
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Kao trening profi sportaša
Za europsko natjecanje tim 'Karamarko, Vrsaljko, Benić' počet će se spremati iduće godine.
- Trening bi nam trebao trajati sigurno pola godine, a trebali bi trenirati 3 ili 4 dana u tjednu, po šest sati. Da, baš poput profesionalnih sportaša. Samo kod nas nema sklekova – šali se Vrsaljko te dodaje kako sudci na tom natjecanju provjeravaju i plan treninga koji ste pisali i vodili.
- Da, i to se ocjenjuje. Prave se i skice jela, crtaju i bajaju, recepture se pišu na dva jezika, engleski je obavezan – naglašava Vrsaljko, a Karamarko je rekao kako je spreman na velika odricanja jer vjeruje da mu je ovo posljednje veliko natjecanje
- Ipak smo mi sad već ljudi u godinama – dobacuje uz osmijeh.
Vrsaljko i Karamarko, osim svojih primarnih zanimanja (profesora u školi i savjetnika u firmi) trenutno rade skupa kao glavni kuhari u zadarskom restoranu Corte, u kvartu Kampo Kaštelo, koji se nalazi u skolpu hotela Almayer.
- Po prvi put dobili smo potpunu slobodu. Uvijek smo bili limitirani ili budžetom, jelovnikom ili s nečim trećim. Sad možemo pustiti mašti na volju i zaista uživamo. Surađujemo s raznim OPG-ovima iz naše žuapnije i lokalnim ribarima. Ovo je naš dnevni boravak, ono o čemu smo uvijek sanjali. Uz naše poslove ovo dođe kao kakav odmor - zaključio je Vrsaljko.
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Za prestižno natjecanje ovaj uspješni zadarski tim traži sponzore te ukoliko im želite pomoći, a pritom se vrhunski izreklamirati na najgledanijem kulinarskom showu – javite im se!
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Svjetsko, a naše – bio ti to najkraći opis uspjeha koji su postigli poznati zadarski kuhari Josip Vrsaljko i Tomislav Karamarko plasiravši se na prestižno europsko kulinarsko natjecanje Bocuse d'Or Europe koje će se za dvije godine održati u Norveškoj.
Tijesna se borba vodila između dvije vrhunske ekipe: zadarske snage činili su Karamarko, renomirani chef i savjetnik iz firme Marikomerc, njegov pomoćnik, 21-godišnji Gabriel Benić iz restorana Bruschetta te njihov mentor, poznati chef Vrsaljko, redovni profesor u Hotelijersko turističkoj i ugostiteljskoj školi Zadar te glavni chef restorana Corte na Poluotoku.
Na čelu druge ekipe je vrhunski chef Bruno Vokal iz restorana Noel, prvog i jedinog zagrebačkog restorana s Michelinovom zvjezdicom, a asistirao mu je njegov kolega, Valbon Ajruli. Dio ove ekipe je i dobitnik Michelinove zvjezdice te head chef i vlasnik šibenske konobe Pelegrini, Rudolf Štefan. Njihove radove su, uz članove sekcije kulinarskih suca HKS-a, vrednovali i mentori oba tima, Vrsaljko i Štefan, uz međunarodna pojačanja Almu Rekič, Ljubicu Komlenić i Gianlucu Tomasia.
---
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Nijanse su odlučivale o pobjedniku, no Karamarkovo dugogodišnje iskustvo u natjecanjima bilo je presudno da i ovog puta odnese pobjedu. Naime, on se već jednom plasirao na Bocuse d'Or Europe, i to 2016. godine kad se ono održavalo u Mađarskoj. Itekako dobro zna što znači biti dio kuharske elite.
- Treba naglasiti kako je zapravo najmanja stavka na ovakvim natjecanju kuhanje. Naravno da je i ono bitno, kao i okusi i prezentacija jela, ali u tih šest sati, koliko traje natjecanje, gleda se apsolutno sve: od tvog ulaska u kuhinju, stila kako radiš, kako barataš higijenom na radnom pultu, do stvari poput gori li ti plin bez tave i koliko dugo, koliko otpadaka ili višaka imaš i na koji ih tretiraš, hoćeš li ih baciti, vakuumirati, odvojiti, spremiti i gdje, brišeš li pribor s krpom ili s papirnatim ubrusima... Uh, toliko toga ima da rad u restoranskoj kuhinji usred sezone izgleda kao dječja igra – smije se Karamarko koji je za svog pomoćnika (koji po pravilima natjecanja mora imati do 21 godine) dobio bivšeg učenika svog kolege Vrsaljka.
Mladi je Benić bio bačen u vatru: prvo natjecanje pa odmah ono najvažnije.
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- Imao sam dosta pomiješanih emocija. Bilo je tu i stresa i uzbuđenja, treme... Nije vam baš svejedno kad toliki broj vrhunskih sudaca prate svaki vaš korak, gledaju svaku sitnicu koju radite i stalno vam se vrte oko pulta promatrajući hoćete li napraviti grešku... U svakom slučaju, bilo je ovo iskustvo koje ću pamtiti cijeli život – kratko je komentirao mladi i uspješni Benić.
Iako razdoblje od dvije godine zvuči kao dugo vrijeme za jedne pripreme, u razgovoru s ovim talentiranim kuharima shvatili smo da je čak i to - vrlo gusto. Osobito ako nemate podršku sponzora, grada, vlade...
Naime, zemlje poput Norveške i Švedske ulažu znatna sredstva u svoje kuhare koji odlaze na to natjecanje, čak nekoliko milijuna eura godišnje, kako bi ih kvalitetno pripremili.
- Švedski tim za trening kuha kraljevskoj obitelji, a uz to tijekom godine odlaze na razna natjecanja, poput kuharske olimpijade i Svjetskog kuharskog kupa. Norvežani pak imaju tri šlepera vrhunske opreme i kuhinju koja vrijedi sigurno preko 10 milijuna eura. Vjerujte mi, veliki se novci vrte uz ovo natjecanje jer kad se plasiraš na svjetsko, koje se svaki put održava u Lyonu, nema ti kraja – pojašnjava nam Vrsaljko, koji je na državnom natjecanju bio mentor svom dugogodišnjem prijatelju i kolegi Kramarku.
Zanimljivo je, a vjerojatno i vrlo rijetko, kako su ova dva talentirana kuhara nekad dijelila školsku klupu, danas i kuhinju u restoranu Corte, a "sutra" će se boriti s najboljim europskim kuharima. Kako kaže Vrsaljko kroz smijeh, 'kao siromasi i farabuti', kakvi su bili i u mladosti.
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- Mi dolazimo s našim posuđem, u kašetama i kutijama, ha-ha! Valjda je to ona naša klasična hrvatska priča: što manje imamo, više se borimo. U nama proradi neki dišpet i uspijemo uz minimalna sredstva, tek nekoliko dana priprema i gotovo nikakvu opremu napraviti ono o čemu mnoge zemlje, koje odvajaju velike novce, sanjaju. Također, vješti smo improvizatori u trenucima kad se recimo plan izjalovi. Volio bi ljudima približiti važnost ovog natjecanja, da shvate koliko bi samo plasiranje na svjetsko u Lyonu, bilo važno za naš grad, ali i cijelu zemlju. Bili bismo prvi iz Hrvatske, a to bi nas zasigurno stavilo na svjetsku gastronomsku kartu – ističe Vrsaljko dodajući kako bi to za zadarski turizam bila jedna velika odskočna daska.
Priliku u tome vidi i direktor TZ-a Mario Paleka koji im je obećao biti vjetar u leđa.
- S ovim je počela naša nova gastronomska utakmica i jedinstvena prilika da ste konačno etabliramo na kulinarsku scenu Mediterana, ali i šire. TZ Grada Zadra je i prije bila svjesna koliko gastronomija znači za turizam, zato se već nekoliko godina bavimo time: otišli smo našu kuhinju promovirati u New York, u jedan od najpopularnijih restorana Manhattana, "Felidia", gdje nam je gost bila i poznata Lidia Bastianich. Prošle smo godine uveli i posebnu rubriku na našim online izdanjima koja se bavi isključivo tradicionalnom zadarskom spizom i receptima koje smo sačuvali od zaborava. Sada se veselimo s Karamarkom i Vrsaljkom napisati nove stranice zadarske gastronomske priče – istaknuo je direktor Paleka.
A vjerujemo kako ova jedinstvena priča dvojice prijatelja, vrhunskih profesionalaca, čiji se odnos temelji ponajviše na simpatičnom podbadanju i dobroj šali, neće stati nakon tog europskog natjecanja, već će se nastaviti još dugi niz godina, sve dok se o njima ne budu pisale priče za nove generacije kuhara.
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Kao trening profi sportaša
Za europsko natjecanje tim 'Karamarko, Vrsaljko, Benić' počet će se spremati iduće godine.
- Trening bi nam trebao trajati sigurno pola godine, a trebali bi trenirati 3 ili 4 dana u tjednu, po šest sati. Da, baš poput profesionalnih sportaša. Samo kod nas nema sklekova – šali se Vrsaljko te dodaje kako sudci na tom natjecanju provjeravaju i plan treninga koji ste pisali i vodili.
- Da, i to se ocjenjuje. Prave se i skice jela, crtaju i bajaju, recepture se pišu na dva jezika, engleski je obavezan – naglašava Vrsaljko, a Karamarko je rekao kako je spreman na velika odricanja jer vjeruje da mu je ovo posljednje veliko natjecanje
- Ipak smo mi sad već ljudi u godinama – dobacuje uz osmijeh.
Vrsaljko i Karamarko, osim svojih primarnih zanimanja (profesora u školi i savjetnika u firmi) trenutno rade skupa kao glavni kuhari u zadarskom restoranu Corte, u kvartu Kampo Kaštelo, koji se nalazi u skolpu hotela Almayer.
- Po prvi put dobili smo potpunu slobodu. Uvijek smo bili limitirani ili budžetom, jelovnikom ili s nečim trećim. Sad možemo pustiti mašti na volju i zaista uživamo. Surađujemo s raznim OPG-ovima iz naše žuapnije i lokalnim ribarima. Ovo je naš dnevni boravak, ono o čemu smo uvijek sanjali. Uz naše poslove ovo dođe kao kakav odmor - zaključio je Vrsaljko.
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Za prestižno natjecanje ovaj uspješni zadarski tim traži sponzore te ukoliko im želite pomoći, a pritom se vrhunski izreklamirati na najgledanijem kulinarskom showu – javite im se!
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Jure Miskovic/Cropix
Josip Vrsaljko kaže kako je njihova priča ”klasična hrvstaka priča”: uz malo sredstva i dišpet osvajaju gastro tronove
Andrej Svoger
Fazan kojeg su morali servirati na platu za 6 osoba te prezentirati žiriju
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11. svibanj 2024 07:09
