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[title] => Pinku ribe, pinku vina i puno, puno gušta: Split ima novi restoran u čiji smo se genijalan đir odmah zaljubili
[alias] => pinku-ribe-pinku-vina-i-puno-puno-gusta-split-ima-novi-restoran-u-ciji-smo-smo-se-genijalan-dir-odmah-zaljubili
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Spoj lokalnih namirnica, modernih kulinarskih tehnika i prostora natopljenog poviješću zvuči nam kao stvarno dobra ideja za restoran. Upravo takav otvoren je prije koji tjedan na najboljem mogućem mjestu za riblji restoran: točno nasuprot legendarne splitske ribarnice. Uz dužno poštovanje prema njenoj povijesti i osobitostima, naravno.
Poštovanje itekako primjetno na jelovniku na kojem su se našle neke pomalo zanemarene riblje vrste poput bežmeka, tabinje i kokota, ali i u interijeru. Peškarija je u svakom segmentu restorana, gotovo kao njen nastavak, od radne plohe, ujedno i površine za posluživanje koja oponaša starinske kamene banke splitske Peškarije, preko metalnih polica koje oponašaju nosivu nkonstrukciju Peškarije, do motiva ribljih ljuski na pultu pa do zanimljivih murala, inače rada poznatog splitskog tattoo umjetnika Tihe El Magica, koji su, doduše, nadahnuti japanskom umjetnošću, no umjesto zlatnih ribica i lopoča prikazuju hobotnice, tunu, lozu i maslinu...
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Jesmo rekli da se zove Pinku? Svima koji znaju što je pravo guštanje, isprobavanje novih okusa, otkrivanje finih nijansi, uspoređivanje... odmah će biti jasno zašto se zove baš tako. Onima kojima nije, preporučujemo da odu i provjere. Mi jesmo. Vlasnik Frane Delić tom nam je prigodom objasnio cijeli zanimljivi koncept svoje zalogajnice, jer službeno se tako 'vodi'.
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- Pinku je zamišljen kao 'full' riblji restoran baziran na starinskim lokalnim namirnicama pripremljenima na suvremen način, a na isti smo način pristupili i uređenju interijera, povezjući starinske detalje s modernima te u konačnici, kad smo ga ogolili, otkrivajući izvorni zid, navodno niz 13. stoljeća - priča nam vlasnik te objašnjava kako je riječ o prostoru nekadašnje mesnice, s tradicijom od preko 200 godina. Prije nego ju je 1960-ih preuzeo bivši Mesopromet, držala ju je splitska obitelj koja se kroz tri generacije bavila tim poslom. I, eto malo poetske pravde, sad nema veze s mesom, nego s ribom.
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- Kao i u svakom mediteranskom gradu, ribarnica je centar oko kojeg su smješteni restorani i zalogajnice koji poslužuju najfriškiju ribu, ravno s banka. Mi smo željeli baš to. Na Peškariji je sve izloženo na banku pa je tako i u nas, na flat-top baru na kojem kuhar priprema ribu pred očima gostiju dok im usput objašnjava što radi i priča cijelu priču - navodi vlasnik.
A cijela ta priča postaje nam sve interesantnija što doznajemo više detalja. Sve je tako pažljivo posloženo: ne samo da je svako jelo jedna mala savršeno sklopljena cjelina, sastavljena od naših, domaćih namirnica nabavljenih isključivo od domaćih OPG-ova, nego se sve ostalo vrlo domišljato naslanja na tu filozofiju.
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Kokteli sadrže njihov domaći sirup infuziran začinima koji dominiraju jelovnikom, riba je vrlo pažljivo termički obrađena kako bi joj tekstura i okus što više došli do izražaja, hrana se ne soli na klasičan način - recimo, lignji se ne dodaje sol nego ju se poslužuje uz breskve zasoljene 2-postotnom otopinom soli kako bi podsjećala na okus koji smo svi obožavali u djetinjstvu, breskve pohlepno progutane na kupanju, oprane u čistom moru...
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Ako smo vas skuvali cijelom ovom pričom, preporučujemo vam da prilikom posjeta svakako sjednete za šank, kako biste cijelo ovo iskustvo doživjeli baš kako treba. S obzirom da je prostor ponešto skučen pa za bar stane tek pet osoba, svakako unaprijed rezervirajte svoje mjesto. Broj ćete naći na službenom instagramu.
Članak je napisan u suradnji s restoranom Pinku i Native Studiom Slobodne Dalmacije
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Spoj lokalnih namirnica, modernih kulinarskih tehnika i prostora natopljenog poviješću zvuči nam kao stvarno dobra ideja za restoran. Upravo takav otvoren je prije koji tjedan na najboljem mogućem mjestu za riblji restoran: točno nasuprot legendarne splitske ribarnice. Uz dužno poštovanje prema njenoj povijesti i osobitostima, naravno.
Poštovanje itekako primjetno na jelovniku na kojem su se našle neke pomalo zanemarene riblje vrste poput bežmeka, tabinje i kokota, ali i u interijeru. Peškarija je u svakom segmentu restorana, gotovo kao njen nastavak, od radne plohe, ujedno i površine za posluživanje koja oponaša starinske kamene banke splitske Peškarije, preko metalnih polica koje oponašaju nosivu nkonstrukciju Peškarije, do motiva ribljih ljuski na pultu pa do zanimljivih murala, inače rada poznatog splitskog tattoo umjetnika Tihe El Magica, koji su, doduše, nadahnuti japanskom umjetnošću, no umjesto zlatnih ribica i lopoča prikazuju hobotnice, tunu, lozu i maslinu...
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Jesmo rekli da se zove Pinku? Svima koji znaju što je pravo guštanje, isprobavanje novih okusa, otkrivanje finih nijansi, uspoređivanje... odmah će biti jasno zašto se zove baš tako. Onima kojima nije, preporučujemo da odu i provjere. Mi jesmo. Vlasnik Frane Delić tom nam je prigodom objasnio cijeli zanimljivi koncept svoje zalogajnice, jer službeno se tako 'vodi'.
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- Pinku je zamišljen kao 'full' riblji restoran baziran na starinskim lokalnim namirnicama pripremljenima na suvremen način, a na isti smo način pristupili i uređenju interijera, povezjući starinske detalje s modernima te u konačnici, kad smo ga ogolili, otkrivajući izvorni zid, navodno niz 13. stoljeća - priča nam vlasnik te objašnjava kako je riječ o prostoru nekadašnje mesnice, s tradicijom od preko 200 godina. Prije nego ju je 1960-ih preuzeo bivši Mesopromet, držala ju je splitska obitelj koja se kroz tri generacije bavila tim poslom. I, eto malo poetske pravde, sad nema veze s mesom, nego s ribom.
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- Kao i u svakom mediteranskom gradu, ribarnica je centar oko kojeg su smješteni restorani i zalogajnice koji poslužuju najfriškiju ribu, ravno s banka. Mi smo željeli baš to. Na Peškariji je sve izloženo na banku pa je tako i u nas, na flat-top baru na kojem kuhar priprema ribu pred očima gostiju dok im usput objašnjava što radi i priča cijelu priču - navodi vlasnik.
A cijela ta priča postaje nam sve interesantnija što doznajemo više detalja. Sve je tako pažljivo posloženo: ne samo da je svako jelo jedna mala savršeno sklopljena cjelina, sastavljena od naših, domaćih namirnica nabavljenih isključivo od domaćih OPG-ova, nego se sve ostalo vrlo domišljato naslanja na tu filozofiju.
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Kokteli sadrže njihov domaći sirup infuziran začinima koji dominiraju jelovnikom, riba je vrlo pažljivo termički obrađena kako bi joj tekstura i okus što više došli do izražaja, hrana se ne soli na klasičan način - recimo, lignji se ne dodaje sol nego ju se poslužuje uz breskve zasoljene 2-postotnom otopinom soli kako bi podsjećala na okus koji smo svi obožavali u djetinjstvu, breskve pohlepno progutane na kupanju, oprane u čistom moru...
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Ako smo vas skuvali cijelom ovom pričom, preporučujemo vam da prilikom posjeta svakako sjednete za šank, kako biste cijelo ovo iskustvo doživjeli baš kako treba. S obzirom da je prostor ponešto skučen pa za bar stane tek pet osoba, svakako unaprijed rezervirajte svoje mjesto. Broj ćete naći na službenom instagramu.
Članak je napisan u suradnji s restoranom Pinku i Native Studiom Slobodne Dalmacije
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[alias] => no_index
)
[13] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 74
[name] => No-cache
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 16
[alias] => no_cache
)
[14] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 77
[name] => Don't show on the front page
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 17
[alias] => dont_show_on_the_front_page
)
[15] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 78
[name] => Related on bottom
[value] => ON
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 18
[alias] => related_on_bottom
)
[16] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 79
[name] => Live button
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 19
[alias] => live_button
)
[25] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 87
[name] => Instant articles
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 28
[alias] => instant_articles
)
[26] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 91
[name] => S preporučuje
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 29
[alias] => s_preporucuje
)
[27] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 92
[name] => S voli
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 30
[alias] => s_voli
)
[28] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 93
[name] => Layout with three photos
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 31
[alias] => layout_with_three_photos
)
[29] => stdClass Object
(
[id] => 94
[name] => Gallery in the article
[value] => OFF
[type] => radio
[group] => 9
[published] => 1
[ordering] => 32
[alias] => gallery_in_the_article
)
)
21. svibanj 2024 13:14
