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Drugi restorani, konobe i bistroi teško će nadmašiti izvedbu ovog tradicionalnog restorana kada su u pitanju skradinski običaji
Restoran Cantinetta u Skradinu postoji više od 15 godina i slovi kao kultno mjesto, jer tamo se jedu najbolja jela skradinske tradicije. Iako je u prošlosti znala robovati zahtjevima turista pa se na meniju znalo naći i uobičajenih "turističkih jela" tipičnih za Dalmaciju, vlasnik Tome Računica, ujedno i glavni kuhar, prerezao je i kartu potpuno promijenio uvrstivši u nju jela toga kraja, oviseći o ribljoj ponudi dana, onome što se može pronaći u zaleđu ili kod domaćih proizvođača na šibenskom pazaru.
Bili smo mnogo puta u Cantinetti, u svako godišnje doba, i svjedočili bogatstvu skradinske gastronomske tradicije - jeli smo tingule, sipu sa šparogama ili bobom, špice (ciple iz Prukljanskog jezera), čokalice (ribice nalik gavunima) i pratili gastronomski razvoj Cantinette, s time da ovoga puta hrana bila najbolja dosad.
Kao pozdrav iz kuhinje došle su nam srdelice (lokalci je zovu zatonska srdela) koje su kratko kuhane u odličnom maslinovom ulju samo da puste svoju vodu - jelo sjajnog okusa koje zove da tunkate toć. Potom stiže riblja juha - prebogata ribljim mesom, repovima škampa i kozica. Bez riže jer su namirnice bile više nego dostatne da juhu obogate na "gospodski način".
Zatim smo probali mesni carpaccio poslužen na divljoj rukoli, ugodnog okusa, možda trunčicu prehladan, ali inače bez zamjerki.
Potom stiže riblji carpaccio, zgodno poslužen u obliku ribe - na početku glava, tijelo čine na tanko narezane ploške mesa, a na kraju rep. Ovako poslužiti ribu možete samo ako je super svježa, jer ćete svježinu mjeriti po oku od glave - a naše je signaliziralo da je riba plivala koji sat prije našeg dolaska.
I onda iznenađenje - skradinski rižot, jelo koje se priprema samo u svečanim prilikama poput fijera i za mnoštvo ljudi jer se kuha gotovo dva dana. Računica govori da su odlučili pomaknuti tradiciju i za vikende uvrstiti rižot u ponudu.
Svaka čast na hrabrosti, a sudeći po okolnim stolovima, svi su ga naručili kao jedan od sljedova. Rižot odličnih okusa, riža baš kako treba i, naravno, zasitan - uz arome muškatnog oraščića (naći će se gotovo u svakom receptu u Skradinu) i svježe ribanog papra.
Naša gozba ne završava jer ima janjećih kotleta iz Bukovice (sela u zaleđu Skradina u koje se ujedno odlazi po kapulu kada se priprema skradinski rižot) i bižota (jegulja iz jezera) koje su nam pripremili "na gradela". Bižoti na gradela su potpuno iznenađenje, prepune okusa, bez one masti i sočne. Za janjetinu također nema zamjerki, pečena je zanatski, sočna i ugodnog slatko-slanog okusa.
Za kraj je stigla skradinska torta (njihova inačica bečke zaherice, samo bogatija) i crumble od jabuka - sočan i ne presladak, što nam se posebno svidjelo.
Iako je vinska karta Cantinette doista bogata - tu su naša vina raznih cjenovnih skupina, ali i strane etikete više klase (očito namijenjene gostima koji u Skradin stižu u superjahtama), mi smo se odlučili za tradiciju pa smo naručili svježi Bibich Debit. Kućno vino je također dobro pa nećete pogriješiti ako se odlučite za njega jer je umjerenijih alkohola i jako pitko.
Za ljepšeg vremena ili u ljeto sigurno ćete poželjeti sjediti na terasi restorana, dok ćete se u hladnija vremena odlučiti za unutrašnji prostor u kojem vlada ugodna atmosfera.
Sve u svemu, teško će drugi gastronomski objekti nadmašiti Cantinettu kada su u pitanju skradinska tradicija, namirnice i recepti. A još uz dodatak skradinskog rižota koji se priprema vikendom - nema boljeg izleta, bez obzira na to jeste u Zagrebu, Splitu ili Šibeniku.
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Restoran Cantinetta u Skradinu
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Drugi restorani, konobe i bistroi teško će nadmašiti izvedbu ovog tradicionalnog restorana kada su u pitanju skradinski običaji
Restoran Cantinetta u Skradinu postoji više od 15 godina i slovi kao kultno mjesto, jer tamo se jedu najbolja jela skradinske tradicije. Iako je u prošlosti znala robovati zahtjevima turista pa se na meniju znalo naći i uobičajenih "turističkih jela" tipičnih za Dalmaciju, vlasnik Tome Računica, ujedno i glavni kuhar, prerezao je i kartu potpuno promijenio uvrstivši u nju jela toga kraja, oviseći o ribljoj ponudi dana, onome što se može pronaći u zaleđu ili kod domaćih proizvođača na šibenskom pazaru.
Bili smo mnogo puta u Cantinetti, u svako godišnje doba, i svjedočili bogatstvu skradinske gastronomske tradicije - jeli smo tingule, sipu sa šparogama ili bobom, špice (ciple iz Prukljanskog jezera), čokalice (ribice nalik gavunima) i pratili gastronomski razvoj Cantinette, s time da ovoga puta hrana bila najbolja dosad.
Kao pozdrav iz kuhinje došle su nam srdelice (lokalci je zovu zatonska srdela) koje su kratko kuhane u odličnom maslinovom ulju samo da puste svoju vodu - jelo sjajnog okusa koje zove da tunkate toć. Potom stiže riblja juha - prebogata ribljim mesom, repovima škampa i kozica. Bez riže jer su namirnice bile više nego dostatne da juhu obogate na "gospodski način".
Zatim smo probali mesni carpaccio poslužen na divljoj rukoli, ugodnog okusa, možda trunčicu prehladan, ali inače bez zamjerki.
Potom stiže riblji carpaccio, zgodno poslužen u obliku ribe - na početku glava, tijelo čine na tanko narezane ploške mesa, a na kraju rep. Ovako poslužiti ribu možete samo ako je super svježa, jer ćete svježinu mjeriti po oku od glave - a naše je signaliziralo da je riba plivala koji sat prije našeg dolaska.
I onda iznenađenje - skradinski rižot, jelo koje se priprema samo u svečanim prilikama poput fijera i za mnoštvo ljudi jer se kuha gotovo dva dana. Računica govori da su odlučili pomaknuti tradiciju i za vikende uvrstiti rižot u ponudu.
Svaka čast na hrabrosti, a sudeći po okolnim stolovima, svi su ga naručili kao jedan od sljedova. Rižot odličnih okusa, riža baš kako treba i, naravno, zasitan - uz arome muškatnog oraščića (naći će se gotovo u svakom receptu u Skradinu) i svježe ribanog papra.
Naša gozba ne završava jer ima janjećih kotleta iz Bukovice (sela u zaleđu Skradina u koje se ujedno odlazi po kapulu kada se priprema skradinski rižot) i bižota (jegulja iz jezera) koje su nam pripremili "na gradela". Bižoti na gradela su potpuno iznenađenje, prepune okusa, bez one masti i sočne. Za janjetinu također nema zamjerki, pečena je zanatski, sočna i ugodnog slatko-slanog okusa.
Za kraj je stigla skradinska torta (njihova inačica bečke zaherice, samo bogatija) i crumble od jabuka - sočan i ne presladak, što nam se posebno svidjelo.
Iako je vinska karta Cantinette doista bogata - tu su naša vina raznih cjenovnih skupina, ali i strane etikete više klase (očito namijenjene gostima koji u Skradin stižu u superjahtama), mi smo se odlučili za tradiciju pa smo naručili svježi Bibich Debit. Kućno vino je također dobro pa nećete pogriješiti ako se odlučite za njega jer je umjerenijih alkohola i jako pitko.
Za ljepšeg vremena ili u ljeto sigurno ćete poželjeti sjediti na terasi restorana, dok ćete se u hladnija vremena odlučiti za unutrašnji prostor u kojem vlada ugodna atmosfera.
Sve u svemu, teško će drugi gastronomski objekti nadmašiti Cantinettu kada su u pitanju skradinska tradicija, namirnice i recepti. A još uz dodatak skradinskog rižota koji se priprema vikendom - nema boljeg izleta, bez obzira na to jeste u Zagrebu, Splitu ili Šibeniku.
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16. svibanj 2024 03:21
