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[title] => Njegova vina govore sto jezika, piju se sve do Kine, na Sabatini mu nije bilo ravnoga, ali ima jedan problem: ‘Prosjek godina peljeških vinogradara je 70...‘
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Za dobro vino trebaju žuljave ruke i motika. Zna to ponajbolje Anto Palihnić, vinogradar i vinar iz Kune Pelješke, koji sa svojim vrhunskim vinima niže uspjehe na domaćoj vinskoj sceni.
Na ovogodišnjoj "Sabatini", susretu vinara i vinogradara koji organizira Zadružni savez Dalmacije, Anto je "pomeo" konkurenciju i pokupio sve nagrade koje su se mogle pokupiti, postavši apsolutni šampion. Njegov Dingač 2019. najbolje je vino "Sabatine" i najbolji otočni proizvod, dok se Dingač Riserva 2015. okitio velikom zlatnom medaljom. U Kunu Pelješku stigle su zlatne medalje i šampionski pokal, koji se pridružio onima s prethodnih "Sabatina" pa ih sada pet ponosno krasi vinsku vitrinu podruma "Palihnić".
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Anto i sin mu Goran ne spavaju na lovorikama stare slave. Težačka je to obitelj. Stalno su u pokretu; u proljeće i ljeto su u vinogradu, a u jesen su u podrumima, gdje grožđe prerađuju u vrhunsko vino. Nije to nimalo lagan posao. Radi se od jutra do mraka da bobice plavca maloga, čiji slador prelazi 21, postanu vrhunsko vino koje će se okititi zlatnim medaljama.
U vanjskim spremnicima milijun litara
Cijede vino, izbacuju kominu, pretaču prve kapljice vrhunskog dingača, koji će to tek postati, iz privremenih spremnika u trajne, gdje će se izbistriti i sazreti.
– U našim je vanjskim inoks spremnicima milijun litara vina – ponosno nam govori Anto, koji je zakoračio u sedmo desetljeće života, ali penje se kao mladić na visoke spremnike s kojih pogled puca po Kuni i obližnjem polju. Naviknuo je on na ovakav način života; otkako je poslije Domovinskog rata ostao bez posla u trgovačkom poduzeću "Razvitak", vinogradi i vino postali su mu izvor egzistencije, što je poslije preraslo u ljubav i strast.
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Na tri lokacije u srcu Pelješca, području Kune, Dingača i Podobuća, obitelj Palihnić proizvodi crna vina sorte plavac mali, Dingač, Dingač Riserva, Postup i Plavac mali u nekoliko varijacija, opolo Rose te desertno vino Prošper. Od bijelih proizvode Rukatac i Pošip istoimenih sorti.
Kako nastaje vrhunsko vino?
– Ma može vam pričati što god tko hoće, ali za vrhunsko vino treba imati vrhunsko grožđe. Nema jednog bez drugog. To je grožđe s južnih padina poluotoka Pelješca, gdje je velika insolacija. Zrake sunca najprije udaraju u grozdove, zatim u stijene i more, odakle se reflektiraju u vinograde. Tako imamo insolaciju s tri strane – rekao nam je Palihnić, naglasivši kako na padinama dingača na jednom čokotu loze možete dobiti samo jedan kilogram grožđa, od kojega nakon gnječenja "izađe" pola litre vina.
– Puno je suhvice, suhe tvari, u grožđu, koju sunce isprži pa izgubi svu vodu i ostaje suhi ekstrakt koji vinu daje kvalitetu – objašnjava nam.
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Anto ne proizvodi rakiju. Specijalizirao se za vrhunska vina, a kominu grožđa odlaže ispod maslina, kao prirodno gnojivo.
– Nije isplativo proizvoditi rakiju s obzirom na visoku cijenu energenata, pa komina završava uglavnom kao otpad – govori nam Anto dok obilazimo njegovu vinariju i podrume u kojima dominiraju inoks i barrique bačve izrađene od hrastovine. Upravo je barrique najbolji za čuvanje vrhunskih vina, ali s obzirom na nedostatak podrumskih prostora, vinari koriste inoks bačve, veće i lakše za održavanje.
Iz fondova EU-a 100 tisuća eura
Anto se dobro snalazi u vinarskom svijetu, gdje se može naći podosta patvorenih vina, pa i uvoznih mješavina koje su sve samo ne vino. Ipak, takav jeftin uvoz guši domaću proizvodnju i ugrožava prave vinare.
– Eto vidite, u nekim trgovačkim lancima može se naći plastična boca od dvije litre uvoznog vina po cijeni od 14,99 kuna. Puno se vina uvozi s Kosova, gdje su male površine pod vinogradima, a proizvode ogromne količine vina. Pa koliko košta proizvodnja litre takvog uvoznog vina kad se odbiju PDV, prijevoz, marža? – pita se Anto, koji smatra da bi se trebale pojačati kontrole na granicama, te da bi država trebala vinsko tržište urediti zakonima i pravilnicima da se ne može uvoziti vino iz trećih zemalja sve dok ima zaliha hrvatskog vina.
– Nama nije potrebno uvoziti vino jer ga proizvodimo dovoljno za naše potrebe – rezolutan je Palihnić.
A kako voditi vinski razgovor, a ne spomenuti cijene vina, korona-krizu, poskupljenje energenata, inflaciju, rat u Ukrajini…
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Anto smatra da bi cijena butelje vina trebala biti veća. Sve je poskupjelo, boce, čepovi, papir za etikete i kutije, prijevoz. Ali nije lako podignuti cijene u ovakvim uvjetima životnog standarda. Tko će onda kupovati vino, koliko će ljudi moći to sebi priuštiti? Zato cijena ostaje na postojećoj razini, a Anto se nada da će se uspjeti uklopiti i opstati.
– Sve je to borba. Radim s velikim trgovačkim lancima koji diktiraju cijene. Oni ne žele povećanja i to moram prihvatiti, jer trgovac može uvesti vina iz Australije, Čilea, Kosova. Na tržištu ima previše vina, ali premalo je vrhunskih – reći će naš sugovornik, kojega je upravo suradnja s trgovačkim centrima spasila u koroni.
Vinari koji su bili orijentirani prema ugostiteljima i restoranima loše su prošli u lockdownu, dok su trgovine radile i vina su se ipak prodavala. Istina, promet je bio nešto manji, ali ipak je kako-tako funkcioniralo.
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Proizvodnja vina zahtijeva stalna ulaganja i inovacije kako bi se moglo opstati na zahtjevnom vinskom tržištu. Naš je sugovornik tako aplicirao i za sredstva iz fondova EU-a, takozvanu vinsku omotnicu, kroz koju je dobio 100 tisuća eura, koje je utrošio na nabavu strojeva, viljuškara i vinske opreme.
Proizvodnja će se prepoloviti
Ima zasađenih oko stotinu tisuća vlastitih trsova loze. Osim toga, grožđe za vino otkupljuje i od četrdesetak peljeških vinogradara, svojih kooperanata, pa je ove jeseni proizveo 700 tisuća litara kvalitetnog vina. U spremnicima trenutno ima milijun litara novog i starog vina.
Međutim, ako se nešto korjenito ne promijeni, Anto ne vidi svijetlu budućnost pelješkog vinarstva i vinogradarstva.
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---
– Ljudi odustaju od proizvodnje grožđa. Vinogradi se ne sade. Prosjek godina peljeških vinogradara je 70. Već godinama nitko ne sadi lozu. Vinogradi idu svome kraju. Za desetak godina proizvodnja grožđa će se prepoloviti – pesimističan je nagrađivani vinar koji svojim vinima pokriva sve trgovačke lance u Hrvatskoj. Dio izvozi u Kinu, Belgiju, Češku, Poljsku i baltičke zemlje. Izvoz je njegova dugoročna strategija.
---
Nedavno se u javnosti potezala priča da se motika neće moći koristiti u vinogradima, odnosno moći će se koristiti, ali takvi vinogradi neće moći ostvariti poticaje iz fondova EU-a. Može li Pelješac bez motike?
– Ma to su vam čiste gluposti. Motika se ne mora koristiti u Slavoniji, gdje je loza sađena na dva metra, ali ovdje kod nas druga je priča. Mi smo se rodili s motikom i umrijet ćemo s motikom. Ovdje kod nas loza je sađena metar za metar kako bi se sačuvala vlaga za vrijeme velikih suša jer loza tako pokrije zemlju i drži vlagu. Motika ostaje osnovno sredstvo za rad dok je Pelješca i peljeških vinograda.
---
---
Anto bi podignuo cijene za 30 posto
Cijena vina nije se mijenjala desetak godina. Izlazna cijena vrhunskog vina kod proizvođača je od 50 do 55 kuna, dok je njihova cijena na policama trgovačkih centara 80 do 85 kuna. Anto smatra da bi cijena vina trebala biti barem trideset posto veća, ali pitanje je tko bi tada uopće mogao kupovati vino.
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author=
title=Njegova vina govore sto jezika, piju se sve do Kine, na Sabatini mu nije bilo ravnoga, ali ima jedan problem: 'Prosjek godina peljeških vinogradara je 70...'
[metakey] => anto palihnić, vrhunsko vino, Sabatina, Pelješac, šampion
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Ili je u vinogradu ili u podrumu - Anto Palihni\u0107<\/p>","","","
Na \u2018Sabatini\u2019 su vina Palihni\u0107 pomela konkurenciju<\/p>","
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
I sin Goran ocu dade ruke<\/p>","
\n\u00a0<\/p>","","
Premda mu je 70, Anto se kao mladi\u0107 penje na spremnike<\/p>","","","
Goran u akciji
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Da bi se napravilo dobro vino, treba za\u0161porkati 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Za dobro vino trebaju žuljave ruke i motika. Zna to ponajbolje Anto Palihnić, vinogradar i vinar iz Kune Pelješke, koji sa svojim vrhunskim vinima niže uspjehe na domaćoj vinskoj sceni.
Na ovogodišnjoj "Sabatini", susretu vinara i vinogradara koji organizira Zadružni savez Dalmacije, Anto je "pomeo" konkurenciju i pokupio sve nagrade koje su se mogle pokupiti, postavši apsolutni šampion. Njegov Dingač 2019. najbolje je vino "Sabatine" i najbolji otočni proizvod, dok se Dingač Riserva 2015. okitio velikom zlatnom medaljom. U Kunu Pelješku stigle su zlatne medalje i šampionski pokal, koji se pridružio onima s prethodnih "Sabatina" pa ih sada pet ponosno krasi vinsku vitrinu podruma "Palihnić".
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Anto i sin mu Goran ne spavaju na lovorikama stare slave. Težačka je to obitelj. Stalno su u pokretu; u proljeće i ljeto su u vinogradu, a u jesen su u podrumima, gdje grožđe prerađuju u vrhunsko vino. Nije to nimalo lagan posao. Radi se od jutra do mraka da bobice plavca maloga, čiji slador prelazi 21, postanu vrhunsko vino koje će se okititi zlatnim medaljama.
U vanjskim spremnicima milijun litara
Cijede vino, izbacuju kominu, pretaču prve kapljice vrhunskog dingača, koji će to tek postati, iz privremenih spremnika u trajne, gdje će se izbistriti i sazreti.
– U našim je vanjskim inoks spremnicima milijun litara vina – ponosno nam govori Anto, koji je zakoračio u sedmo desetljeće života, ali penje se kao mladić na visoke spremnike s kojih pogled puca po Kuni i obližnjem polju. Naviknuo je on na ovakav način života; otkako je poslije Domovinskog rata ostao bez posla u trgovačkom poduzeću "Razvitak", vinogradi i vino postali su mu izvor egzistencije, što je poslije preraslo u ljubav i strast.
---
---
Na tri lokacije u srcu Pelješca, području Kune, Dingača i Podobuća, obitelj Palihnić proizvodi crna vina sorte plavac mali, Dingač, Dingač Riserva, Postup i Plavac mali u nekoliko varijacija, opolo Rose te desertno vino Prošper. Od bijelih proizvode Rukatac i Pošip istoimenih sorti.
Kako nastaje vrhunsko vino?
– Ma može vam pričati što god tko hoće, ali za vrhunsko vino treba imati vrhunsko grožđe. Nema jednog bez drugog. To je grožđe s južnih padina poluotoka Pelješca, gdje je velika insolacija. Zrake sunca najprije udaraju u grozdove, zatim u stijene i more, odakle se reflektiraju u vinograde. Tako imamo insolaciju s tri strane – rekao nam je Palihnić, naglasivši kako na padinama dingača na jednom čokotu loze možete dobiti samo jedan kilogram grožđa, od kojega nakon gnječenja "izađe" pola litre vina.
– Puno je suhvice, suhe tvari, u grožđu, koju sunce isprži pa izgubi svu vodu i ostaje suhi ekstrakt koji vinu daje kvalitetu – objašnjava nam.
---
---
Anto ne proizvodi rakiju. Specijalizirao se za vrhunska vina, a kominu grožđa odlaže ispod maslina, kao prirodno gnojivo.
– Nije isplativo proizvoditi rakiju s obzirom na visoku cijenu energenata, pa komina završava uglavnom kao otpad – govori nam Anto dok obilazimo njegovu vinariju i podrume u kojima dominiraju inoks i barrique bačve izrađene od hrastovine. Upravo je barrique najbolji za čuvanje vrhunskih vina, ali s obzirom na nedostatak podrumskih prostora, vinari koriste inoks bačve, veće i lakše za održavanje.
Iz fondova EU-a 100 tisuća eura
Anto se dobro snalazi u vinarskom svijetu, gdje se može naći podosta patvorenih vina, pa i uvoznih mješavina koje su sve samo ne vino. Ipak, takav jeftin uvoz guši domaću proizvodnju i ugrožava prave vinare.
– Eto vidite, u nekim trgovačkim lancima može se naći plastična boca od dvije litre uvoznog vina po cijeni od 14,99 kuna. Puno se vina uvozi s Kosova, gdje su male površine pod vinogradima, a proizvode ogromne količine vina. Pa koliko košta proizvodnja litre takvog uvoznog vina kad se odbiju PDV, prijevoz, marža? – pita se Anto, koji smatra da bi se trebale pojačati kontrole na granicama, te da bi država trebala vinsko tržište urediti zakonima i pravilnicima da se ne može uvoziti vino iz trećih zemalja sve dok ima zaliha hrvatskog vina.
– Nama nije potrebno uvoziti vino jer ga proizvodimo dovoljno za naše potrebe – rezolutan je Palihnić.
A kako voditi vinski razgovor, a ne spomenuti cijene vina, korona-krizu, poskupljenje energenata, inflaciju, rat u Ukrajini…
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Anto smatra da bi cijena butelje vina trebala biti veća. Sve je poskupjelo, boce, čepovi, papir za etikete i kutije, prijevoz. Ali nije lako podignuti cijene u ovakvim uvjetima životnog standarda. Tko će onda kupovati vino, koliko će ljudi moći to sebi priuštiti? Zato cijena ostaje na postojećoj razini, a Anto se nada da će se uspjeti uklopiti i opstati.
– Sve je to borba. Radim s velikim trgovačkim lancima koji diktiraju cijene. Oni ne žele povećanja i to moram prihvatiti, jer trgovac može uvesti vina iz Australije, Čilea, Kosova. Na tržištu ima previše vina, ali premalo je vrhunskih – reći će naš sugovornik, kojega je upravo suradnja s trgovačkim centrima spasila u koroni.
Vinari koji su bili orijentirani prema ugostiteljima i restoranima loše su prošli u lockdownu, dok su trgovine radile i vina su se ipak prodavala. Istina, promet je bio nešto manji, ali ipak je kako-tako funkcioniralo.
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Proizvodnja vina zahtijeva stalna ulaganja i inovacije kako bi se moglo opstati na zahtjevnom vinskom tržištu. Naš je sugovornik tako aplicirao i za sredstva iz fondova EU-a, takozvanu vinsku omotnicu, kroz koju je dobio 100 tisuća eura, koje je utrošio na nabavu strojeva, viljuškara i vinske opreme.
Proizvodnja će se prepoloviti
Ima zasađenih oko stotinu tisuća vlastitih trsova loze. Osim toga, grožđe za vino otkupljuje i od četrdesetak peljeških vinogradara, svojih kooperanata, pa je ove jeseni proizveo 700 tisuća litara kvalitetnog vina. U spremnicima trenutno ima milijun litara novog i starog vina.
Međutim, ako se nešto korjenito ne promijeni, Anto ne vidi svijetlu budućnost pelješkog vinarstva i vinogradarstva.
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– Ljudi odustaju od proizvodnje grožđa. Vinogradi se ne sade. Prosjek godina peljeških vinogradara je 70. Već godinama nitko ne sadi lozu. Vinogradi idu svome kraju. Za desetak godina proizvodnja grožđa će se prepoloviti – pesimističan je nagrađivani vinar koji svojim vinima pokriva sve trgovačke lance u Hrvatskoj. Dio izvozi u Kinu, Belgiju, Češku, Poljsku i baltičke zemlje. Izvoz je njegova dugoročna strategija.
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Nedavno se u javnosti potezala priča da se motika neće moći koristiti u vinogradima, odnosno moći će se koristiti, ali takvi vinogradi neće moći ostvariti poticaje iz fondova EU-a. Može li Pelješac bez motike?
– Ma to su vam čiste gluposti. Motika se ne mora koristiti u Slavoniji, gdje je loza sađena na dva metra, ali ovdje kod nas druga je priča. Mi smo se rodili s motikom i umrijet ćemo s motikom. Ovdje kod nas loza je sađena metar za metar kako bi se sačuvala vlaga za vrijeme velikih suša jer loza tako pokrije zemlju i drži vlagu. Motika ostaje osnovno sredstvo za rad dok je Pelješca i peljeških vinograda.
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Anto bi podignuo cijene za 30 posto
Cijena vina nije se mijenjala desetak godina. Izlazna cijena vrhunskog vina kod proizvođača je od 50 do 55 kuna, dok je njihova cijena na policama trgovačkih centara 80 do 85 kuna. Anto smatra da bi cijena vina trebala biti barem trideset posto veća, ali pitanje je tko bi tada uopće mogao kupovati vino.
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14. svibanj 2024 07:16
