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- Kod nas brate je gram, gram – šalom započinje razgovor Zvone, dok nam Gogo dodaje malenu staklenku punu vrijednog začina. Na oko zanimljive, crvenkasto-narančaste niti, stisnule su se poput konca, u mirisno klupko, ne odajući ničim da se samo jedan gram prodaje za 20 eura!
Naravno, govorimo o šafranu, najskupljem začinu na svijetu, koji u ovom slučaju, raste u Žeravi, nadomak Zadra. Uzgajaju ga dugogodišnji prijatelji, Goran Paleka i Zvonimir Baričević, dvojac koji nikad ne biste povezali s poljem, a kamo li s branjem malenih ljubičastih cvjetova.
No, život ti uvijek posloži karte baš onako kako trebaju biti.
Zvone je po zanimanju geodet, a Gogin glas čuje se diljem županije. Ma, i šire. Gogo je radijski voditelj i često je njegov glas u najpoznatijim televizijskim reklamama. Vjerujte nam, čuli ste ga. Ujedno je i gitarist u poznatom zadarskom metal bendu.
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Pitate se onda kako su se odlučili baš za uzgoj šafrana? Pa, metodom eliminacije.
- Još prije desetak godina imali smo zajedničku želju baviti se zemljom, vratiti se njoj, kao i naši stari nekad. To nas je privlačilo jer smo htjeli i jedan odmak od realnosti, od stresa koji se gomilao. Godinama smo tražili kojom se kulturom baviti a da ne iziskuje velike potrošnje vode ili pak kupnju hektara i hektara terena. Željeli smo nešto u što ne bismo potrošili puno vremena, nešto što bi bilo održivo uz naše primarne poslove. I onda se Zvone dosjetio šafrana – govori Gogo, dodajući kako su nakon odluke o kulturi, proveli godine istražujući sve o tom posebnom cvijetu.
- Osim brojnih sati provedenih na internetu i nad brojnom literaturom, pokušavali smo pronaći nekoga tko bi nam mogao barem malo pojasniti način uzgoja, udijeliti kakav dobar savjet da ne griješimo puno odmah u startu. Zvali smo razne šafranare, pronašli smo jednoga i u Hrvatskoj, Talijana iz Istre, no, brzo smo shvatili da ljudi u ovoj “branši“ neradno dijele svoje znanje o šafranu. I onda smo bili prepušteni sami sebi... – prisjeća se Zvone te 2015. godine kada su se konačno odlučili posaditi prvo ‘pokusno polje‘.
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- Eko sjeme smo nabavili iz centrale Italije. Da smo imali nekoga tko bi nam pomogao ne bismo “lutali“ dvije godine. Možda ne bi bilo potrebe ni za tim pokusnim poljem... Ali, što je tu je, valjda se ipak najbolje nauči iz metode pokušaja i pogrešaka – smije se danas Zvone dok nas vodi dugim poljem okupanim jutarnjom vlagom. Neki su se cvjetovi otvorili, drugi nisu. Kaže nam Gogo kako smo trebali doći prije šest ujutro, kad su svi zatvoreni, jer se upravo tad trebaju pobrati.
Maleni, vrlo blizu zemlje, beru se ručno.
- Mada bi se mnogi lako pomamili kada čuju da se gram šafrana zaista skupo može prodati, osobito ako spada u A klasu, čovjeka brzo ohladi spoznaja da za taj jedan gram treba ubrati od 140 do čak 180 cvjetova. I to ručno! Cvijet po cvijet, u ranu zoru, u studenome... I ode kičma – dodaje Gogo s bolnom grimasom, dok u oprezno, sad već maherski, bere cvijeće i stavlja ga u košaru.
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- Znamo da ne izgledamo baš premuževno s ovim košaricama među poljem cvijeća, ali nama je vrsta terapije. Čovjek se ovdje, dalje od vreve grada, u tišini prirode, s pogledom koji puca na Velebit, zaista tako lako isključi. Zanimljivo je da se svugdje u svijetu bere jednako, ručno. Nema te tehnologije i tog stroja koji će ovaj cvijet ubrati kao čovjek – ističe. Nakon prve, pokusne godine, slijedila je druga, kad su svoje uzorke odlučili poslali na analizu u Francusku.
- Kad su stigli rezultati i sami smo ostali zatečeni. Naime, naš je šafran dobio visoku prvu klasu! Ono što smo zapravo i htjeli... No, tad smo ujedno skužili da i zec jako voli šafran – smije se Zvone, dodajući da su tada saznali još pokoju boljku, ali i način njegove zaštite.
- Naučili smo kakve sve veličine šafrana postoje, shvatili dužine tučka i kako ih dijeliti po kvaliteti, odlučili smo saditi ga kao jednogodišnju ili višegodišnju biljku, kao i kada ga i na koji način sušiti... Naučili smo zaista puno ključnih stvari da danas možemo izaći u javnost i ponosno stajati iza našeg proizvoda - ističe Gogo i dobacuje anegdotu s prvog pokušaja sušenja tučaka gdje su se opekli. Doslovno.
---
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- Plod šafrana suši se na žeravi, naglo. Te se male crvene niti stave u sito za brašno i približi ih se žeravi. Mi smo prve malo previše i prenaglo približili da su otišle. U papar – smiju se ovi simpatični momci koji su danas postali jedini uzgajivači šafrana u Dalmaciji.
- Barem koliko mi znamo... – dodaju.
Sve što su do sad napravili, napravili su sami, svojim sredstvima. Potpore za šafran – ne postoje.
- U Hrvatskoj se ova biljka boduje se kao začinsko bilje, možda je stepenicu iznad pašnjaka. Što je zaista smiješno! Mislimo da bismo mogli dobiti potporu ako uvrstimo šafranu u neku drugu kategoriju, pa makar to bilo cvijeće. To nam je zapravo sljedeći cilj: pokušati sve da se taj zakon i ta kategorija promijeni kako bi nekim drugima, nakon nas bilo malo lakše. Nadam se da će naši političari imati sluha jer vjerujem kako bi Dalmacija, s ovom klimom i tlom, bila savršena za uzgoj ove iznimno cijenjene biljke – naglašava Zvone.
---
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Danas taj začin, pomalo gorkog okusa, široku primjenu u kulinarstvu nalazi u Indiji, gdje se koristi u slanim i slatkim jelima, poput kesari batha, biryanija i kheera, u Italiji gdje se njime začinjavaju rižoti, jela s tjesteninom te variva, i u Francuskoj gdje se dodaje u poznatu riblju juhu bouillabaisse. Osim u tim zemljama, šafranom se začinjavaju jela u Maroku, Iranu i Švicarskoj... U Iranu se on proizvodi više od 3.000 godina. Od 250 proizvedenih tona šafrana svake godine u svijetu, čak 90% se proizvede u toj zemlji.
Stoga ne čudi glavni cilj ovih Zadrana: kvalitetom osvojiti tržište visoke kuhinje.
---
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- Na sreću, izašli smo na tržište u pravo vrijeme kada je visoka kuhinja u Hrvatskoj počela cvjetati. Upali smo doslovno u njezino zlatno doba, u vrijeme kada se zaista cijeni domaći proizvod i kada je kvaliteta dobila na važnosti spram kvantitete. Zato smo uspjeli ono šafrana što smo imali prošle godine, prve ekonomski isplative godine, sve prodati u Zadru, u tri restorana, kod kuhara Saše Begana i Josipa Vrsaljka koji su odmah shvatili njegovu važnost i prepoznali našu priču – govori Gogo, a Zvone se ubacuje:
- Ne samo to, nego smo dobili fantastičnu povratnu reakciju, kako od vrhunskih chefova, tako i od gostiju koju su ga probali. Mislimo da je sad vrijeme kada je ugostiteljima važno imati domaći, lokalni i prije svega kvalitetan proizvod, koji mogu plasirati svojim gostima, onaj jedan koji bi ih odvojio od mase. Ako se kao zemlja želimo dignuti na jednu višu gastronomsku razinu, smatramo da je upravo to sada i da je ovo jedan od načina – zaključuju ovi moderni poljoprivrednici za koje ćete zasigurno još čuti.
---
---
---
Osim u kulinarstvu, cvijet šafrana koristi se kao lijek. Naime, sadrži mnoge aktivne biljne spojeve koji mogu posjedovati ljekovita svojstva. Svi ti spojevi mogu djelovati antioksidativno i štititi stanice od štete uzrokovane djelovanjem slobodnim radikalima. Nutricionisti navode da zbog spojeva koje šafran posjeduje on može koristiti za ublažavanje simptoma depresije, poboljšavanje pamćenja i koncentracije, smanjivanje simptoma PMS-a, smanjivanje apetita, povećanje libida, snižavanje koncentracije glukoze u krvi, održavanje zdravlja očiju.
- Ipak, previše šafrana može te i ubiti. Doze od 15 do 20 grama praha šafrana mogu izazvati smrt. Zato ga mi iz šale nazivamo i ‘začinom za punicu‘ – smije se Zvone.
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title=Bili smo u jedinom dalmatinskom polju najskupljeg začina na svijetu. Zvone i Gogo otkrili su nam sve o unosnom, ali i delikatnom poslu: 'Upali smo s ovim doslovno u zlatno doba'
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[category] => TableOCMCategory Object
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[id] => 452
[name] => S mora i kraja
[alias] => s-mora-i-kraja
[description] =>
[parent] => 246
[extraFieldsGroup] => 9
[published] => 1
[image] =>
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- Kod nas brate je gram, gram – šalom započinje razgovor Zvone, dok nam Gogo dodaje malenu staklenku punu vrijednog začina. Na oko zanimljive, crvenkasto-narančaste niti, stisnule su se poput konca, u mirisno klupko, ne odajući ničim da se samo jedan gram prodaje za 20 eura!
Naravno, govorimo o šafranu, najskupljem začinu na svijetu, koji u ovom slučaju, raste u Žeravi, nadomak Zadra. Uzgajaju ga dugogodišnji prijatelji, Goran Paleka i Zvonimir Baričević, dvojac koji nikad ne biste povezali s poljem, a kamo li s branjem malenih ljubičastih cvjetova.
No, život ti uvijek posloži karte baš onako kako trebaju biti.
Zvone je po zanimanju geodet, a Gogin glas čuje se diljem županije. Ma, i šire. Gogo je radijski voditelj i često je njegov glas u najpoznatijim televizijskim reklamama. Vjerujte nam, čuli ste ga. Ujedno je i gitarist u poznatom zadarskom metal bendu.
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Pitate se onda kako su se odlučili baš za uzgoj šafrana? Pa, metodom eliminacije.
- Još prije desetak godina imali smo zajedničku želju baviti se zemljom, vratiti se njoj, kao i naši stari nekad. To nas je privlačilo jer smo htjeli i jedan odmak od realnosti, od stresa koji se gomilao. Godinama smo tražili kojom se kulturom baviti a da ne iziskuje velike potrošnje vode ili pak kupnju hektara i hektara terena. Željeli smo nešto u što ne bismo potrošili puno vremena, nešto što bi bilo održivo uz naše primarne poslove. I onda se Zvone dosjetio šafrana – govori Gogo, dodajući kako su nakon odluke o kulturi, proveli godine istražujući sve o tom posebnom cvijetu.
- Osim brojnih sati provedenih na internetu i nad brojnom literaturom, pokušavali smo pronaći nekoga tko bi nam mogao barem malo pojasniti način uzgoja, udijeliti kakav dobar savjet da ne griješimo puno odmah u startu. Zvali smo razne šafranare, pronašli smo jednoga i u Hrvatskoj, Talijana iz Istre, no, brzo smo shvatili da ljudi u ovoj “branši“ neradno dijele svoje znanje o šafranu. I onda smo bili prepušteni sami sebi... – prisjeća se Zvone te 2015. godine kada su se konačno odlučili posaditi prvo ‘pokusno polje‘.
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- Eko sjeme smo nabavili iz centrale Italije. Da smo imali nekoga tko bi nam pomogao ne bismo “lutali“ dvije godine. Možda ne bi bilo potrebe ni za tim pokusnim poljem... Ali, što je tu je, valjda se ipak najbolje nauči iz metode pokušaja i pogrešaka – smije se danas Zvone dok nas vodi dugim poljem okupanim jutarnjom vlagom. Neki su se cvjetovi otvorili, drugi nisu. Kaže nam Gogo kako smo trebali doći prije šest ujutro, kad su svi zatvoreni, jer se upravo tad trebaju pobrati.
Maleni, vrlo blizu zemlje, beru se ručno.
- Mada bi se mnogi lako pomamili kada čuju da se gram šafrana zaista skupo može prodati, osobito ako spada u A klasu, čovjeka brzo ohladi spoznaja da za taj jedan gram treba ubrati od 140 do čak 180 cvjetova. I to ručno! Cvijet po cvijet, u ranu zoru, u studenome... I ode kičma – dodaje Gogo s bolnom grimasom, dok u oprezno, sad već maherski, bere cvijeće i stavlja ga u košaru.
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- Znamo da ne izgledamo baš premuževno s ovim košaricama među poljem cvijeća, ali nama je vrsta terapije. Čovjek se ovdje, dalje od vreve grada, u tišini prirode, s pogledom koji puca na Velebit, zaista tako lako isključi. Zanimljivo je da se svugdje u svijetu bere jednako, ručno. Nema te tehnologije i tog stroja koji će ovaj cvijet ubrati kao čovjek – ističe. Nakon prve, pokusne godine, slijedila je druga, kad su svoje uzorke odlučili poslali na analizu u Francusku.
- Kad su stigli rezultati i sami smo ostali zatečeni. Naime, naš je šafran dobio visoku prvu klasu! Ono što smo zapravo i htjeli... No, tad smo ujedno skužili da i zec jako voli šafran – smije se Zvone, dodajući da su tada saznali još pokoju boljku, ali i način njegove zaštite.
- Naučili smo kakve sve veličine šafrana postoje, shvatili dužine tučka i kako ih dijeliti po kvaliteti, odlučili smo saditi ga kao jednogodišnju ili višegodišnju biljku, kao i kada ga i na koji način sušiti... Naučili smo zaista puno ključnih stvari da danas možemo izaći u javnost i ponosno stajati iza našeg proizvoda - ističe Gogo i dobacuje anegdotu s prvog pokušaja sušenja tučaka gdje su se opekli. Doslovno.
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- Plod šafrana suši se na žeravi, naglo. Te se male crvene niti stave u sito za brašno i približi ih se žeravi. Mi smo prve malo previše i prenaglo približili da su otišle. U papar – smiju se ovi simpatični momci koji su danas postali jedini uzgajivači šafrana u Dalmaciji.
- Barem koliko mi znamo... – dodaju.
Sve što su do sad napravili, napravili su sami, svojim sredstvima. Potpore za šafran – ne postoje.
- U Hrvatskoj se ova biljka boduje se kao začinsko bilje, možda je stepenicu iznad pašnjaka. Što je zaista smiješno! Mislimo da bismo mogli dobiti potporu ako uvrstimo šafranu u neku drugu kategoriju, pa makar to bilo cvijeće. To nam je zapravo sljedeći cilj: pokušati sve da se taj zakon i ta kategorija promijeni kako bi nekim drugima, nakon nas bilo malo lakše. Nadam se da će naši političari imati sluha jer vjerujem kako bi Dalmacija, s ovom klimom i tlom, bila savršena za uzgoj ove iznimno cijenjene biljke – naglašava Zvone.
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Danas taj začin, pomalo gorkog okusa, široku primjenu u kulinarstvu nalazi u Indiji, gdje se koristi u slanim i slatkim jelima, poput kesari batha, biryanija i kheera, u Italiji gdje se njime začinjavaju rižoti, jela s tjesteninom te variva, i u Francuskoj gdje se dodaje u poznatu riblju juhu bouillabaisse. Osim u tim zemljama, šafranom se začinjavaju jela u Maroku, Iranu i Švicarskoj... U Iranu se on proizvodi više od 3.000 godina. Od 250 proizvedenih tona šafrana svake godine u svijetu, čak 90% se proizvede u toj zemlji.
Stoga ne čudi glavni cilj ovih Zadrana: kvalitetom osvojiti tržište visoke kuhinje.
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- Na sreću, izašli smo na tržište u pravo vrijeme kada je visoka kuhinja u Hrvatskoj počela cvjetati. Upali smo doslovno u njezino zlatno doba, u vrijeme kada se zaista cijeni domaći proizvod i kada je kvaliteta dobila na važnosti spram kvantitete. Zato smo uspjeli ono šafrana što smo imali prošle godine, prve ekonomski isplative godine, sve prodati u Zadru, u tri restorana, kod kuhara Saše Begana i Josipa Vrsaljka koji su odmah shvatili njegovu važnost i prepoznali našu priču – govori Gogo, a Zvone se ubacuje:
- Ne samo to, nego smo dobili fantastičnu povratnu reakciju, kako od vrhunskih chefova, tako i od gostiju koju su ga probali. Mislimo da je sad vrijeme kada je ugostiteljima važno imati domaći, lokalni i prije svega kvalitetan proizvod, koji mogu plasirati svojim gostima, onaj jedan koji bi ih odvojio od mase. Ako se kao zemlja želimo dignuti na jednu višu gastronomsku razinu, smatramo da je upravo to sada i da je ovo jedan od načina – zaključuju ovi moderni poljoprivrednici za koje ćete zasigurno još čuti.
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Osim u kulinarstvu, cvijet šafrana koristi se kao lijek. Naime, sadrži mnoge aktivne biljne spojeve koji mogu posjedovati ljekovita svojstva. Svi ti spojevi mogu djelovati antioksidativno i štititi stanice od štete uzrokovane djelovanjem slobodnim radikalima. Nutricionisti navode da zbog spojeva koje šafran posjeduje on može koristiti za ublažavanje simptoma depresije, poboljšavanje pamćenja i koncentracije, smanjivanje simptoma PMS-a, smanjivanje apetita, povećanje libida, snižavanje koncentracije glukoze u krvi, održavanje zdravlja očiju.
- Ipak, previše šafrana može te i ubiti. Doze od 15 do 20 grama praha šafrana mogu izazvati smrt. Zato ga mi iz šale nazivamo i ‘začinom za punicu‘ – smije se Zvone.
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19. svibanj 2024 21:40
